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I’m in pending clutch parts arrival.
However, I have a question that I will ask publicly instead of PM because it may benefit others. (caveat emptor)
Q1: Referring to the transponders, is there more than one type or manufacturer that will work?
Q2:If I buy one that works at The Track, will it work at all other tracks? Will it work in all CSC races?Thanks guys!
Kirk
http://www.amb-it.com/shop/amer/catalog/index.php?cPath=4_6&osCsid=d3bd16e57311dad5d797851c2b70e905 ouch…240 bucks.
Somehow I continue to rationalize my spending.
Thanks, Mike. Piston stop and new clutch are enroute. I guess jamming a flat head screwdriver into the side of the motor wasnt the best option for keeping it from turning over. :idn:
@Doug Welch wrote:
How about an semi open class, no weight and one at masters?
Doug…I love it. Open it up to the Rotaries, new 4-strokes, etc. NO WEIGHT! We can all drive our karts like they were designed…without 40lbs hanging off the seats. OR…just make it TaG only but still with NO WEIGHT.
I like this concept and want to race…but 500 bucks just to participate is pretty steep for me.
300 bucks entry fee (previously mentioned)
180 bucks for tires
50 bucks for a new can of fuel
20 bucks for Oil(yes, I know these expenses would be split with driver #2)
Since I have no chance of winning and making my money back, would the organizers consider token gifts for the participants like 10 bucks off practice, gift certificates to supporting shops, etc?
Just thinking out loud and I think this is a great racing idea.
Great…just GREAT. There goes my chance at world domination with my Easykart. I guess all the Rotax and Leopard drivers on the national scene can thank their lucky stars (pun intended).
It is on tonight at Midnight in case you have missed the first showing. From what I saw at TheTrack, the show is focusing on Chase. Good for him! (havent seen it yet) Sweet!
I’m hoping to come out this weekend to practice for the Colorado Winter Tour events. Forecast says 60’s and sunny for saturday. I’m bringing my 5 yr old crew chief if any of you need setup advice.
Perhaps the Gorilla GP is actually the Guerrilla GP. The results will be kept secret,as will the uniforms, in an effort to protect the participants. No Gorillas were harmed while writing this post.
*killing time at work, sorry for the positively pointless posting*
Rick/Roman,
That video is SWEET! I was watching it on crappy laptop speakers but the high end of the motors sound awesome! I definitely recommend that others spend the extra couple of minutes to download the high-res version.
I had to work around the work firewall and the evil-overlordness of Websense blocking all streaming media… but hey…I’m a tech worker…what good am i if i can’t circumvent a couple minor web hurdles? Kart racing video was at stake here! They probably won’t fire me…(maybe if I show them the video they’ll understand.)
Great write up and pics. I can’t wait to see some video. Rick can you or the drivers post some feedback about the motors? Did one seem to be stronger than the other two types, etc.? Did the drivers have a preference? Reliability problems? Positives?
Is anyone from Colorado going to the Dubai round of this series? Blink?
Faxing is SOOOooooo 10 years ago. Do you accept a .pdf in an email? [tongue in cheek]
Actually I have put off filling out the survey because I thought it was directed only at CSC participants instead of all karters in the Colorado region.
Do you want to hear from a n00b and my limited season with only two CSC races to my credit?
oh yeah..one more thing…have you thought about brakes yet?
Is your project for class just to build the frame and demonstrate your welding/bending prowess or is the desired end result to have a functioning racing kart?
Keep in mind, this MIGHT get expensive when you start to source parts to turn a roller into a runner. No one is trying to convince you NOT to do this, but rather we are hoping to help you with the REALITY of your project.
My suggestion is to shoot for the ‘yard kart’ style like you see at walmart. You’ll have a much better chance of having a running kart by the end of the school year.
Ignore the rest of the stuff on this post in this link. The second post has the chassis dimensions of a known good design.
http://www.ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.php?t=50307
Other than the basic layout, you may (SHOULD) measure the front end of a real kart and try to duplicate it. If not, the kart will not jack the weight of the kart to get the inside rear to lift (critical to turning with a live axle).
If you want to take a shortcut (and skip the complicated front end geometry), just copy the dimensions above and go with a single rear wheel as the ‘driver’ and let the other wheel spin freely. If both wheels are driven, the ‘live’ axle will cause the front to plow straight ahead when you turn the wheel (not fun at 40mph when you want to avoid things like curbs and cars)
ref: wheels and tires…most folks on here only have slicks to offer you. If you are gonna make this a ‘yard kart’ for dirt and grass, you may want to look at some snowblower tires.
Good luck and post pictures.
What’s your name?
Come out to the track this weekend. People will be practising all day saturday for a largish race on Sunday. People will talk your ear off (me included). Ask ALOT of questions, everyone is happy to share.
Kirk
#46jj and Curt,
Maybe what Curt is asking for is just a clarification of the blue flag for all drivers.
In my tiny little n00b racing brain, when *I* see a blue flag i maintain my speed, my line, everything..UNTIL i see the nose of the faster kart..it is at THAT point that I yield the line and let him through, knowing full well that 2nd place may try to squeeze through on the same corner or on the very next one…again, I keep my speed and line consistent. What the blue flag is NOT is a signal to slow down and drastically vary your line *in case* a faster kart might be behind you. I think the faster drivers would agree that they would prefer the slower drivers maintain the racing line when being passed or at least yield the faster line when shown a wheel. Anyone?
