Home › Forums › General Discussion › help me cuz im dumber than a box of rocks
- This topic has 21 replies, 13 voices, and was last updated 19 years, 7 months ago by
Anonymous.
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- October 18, 2006 at 8:48 am #55222
Brad Linkus
ParticipantI am the only one in Colorado that I know of that has designed and built a chassis from the ground up for racing that actually worked and won races. Unless you are very good at fabricating, TIG welding moly, machining, bending moly tubing, building a jig, drafting, and have a lot of spare time on your hands, I would not waste my time and money. Just asking the questions you are asking I would say not a good dream. Try building something in shop that you can finish before you graduate, something simple will even take you a while to build if this is your first project.
October 18, 2006 at 12:33 pm #55223Anonymous
InactiveSpencer,
Blink knows what he is talking about.
Maybe a Soap Box Derby car would be a better idea.
October 18, 2006 at 1:45 pm #55224Jason Benoit
ParticipantI absolutely disagree with the others. If this is something you have really put your mind to, go for it. Who knows maybe someday this will lead you to being one of the top chassis builders in the world.
October 18, 2006 at 3:04 pm #55225Anonymous
Inactiveim in ag 4 so iam a pretty good welder… im not trying to make an exact chassis that would be raced, i just want to build one that looks better than a square on wheels…. how long is a kart? how wide?
October 18, 2006 at 4:26 pm #55226Jon Romenesko
ParticipantNothing wrong with pursuing something like this. If you like doing it, why not? I’ve had many a completely hopeless projects that i kept working on. 8)
Anyways, my advice=take inspiration from professionaly built karts. Attepmpt to follow their designs, because they work! Perhaps you’d want to try measuring up a kart in person.
October 18, 2006 at 4:40 pm #55227Kirk Deason
ParticipantIgnore the rest of the stuff on this post in this link. The second post has the chassis dimensions of a known good design.
http://www.ekartingnews.com/viewtopic.php?t=50307
Other than the basic layout, you may (SHOULD) measure the front end of a real kart and try to duplicate it. If not, the kart will not jack the weight of the kart to get the inside rear to lift (critical to turning with a live axle).
If you want to take a shortcut (and skip the complicated front end geometry), just copy the dimensions above and go with a single rear wheel as the ‘driver’ and let the other wheel spin freely. If both wheels are driven, the ‘live’ axle will cause the front to plow straight ahead when you turn the wheel (not fun at 40mph when you want to avoid things like curbs and cars)
ref: wheels and tires…most folks on here only have slicks to offer you. If you are gonna make this a ‘yard kart’ for dirt and grass, you may want to look at some snowblower tires.
Good luck and post pictures.
October 18, 2006 at 4:43 pm #55228Brian Robson
ParticipantGo for it!!!! We (American’s) Created the sport, and the Italians have “perfected” it. I personally would love to see another domestic kart on the scene.
Try to get a copy of Superkart Illustrated or Nartional Kart News Chassis guide. It could give you some direction. You can also look up some kart chassis web sites.
Your Success or failure depends on you. I commend you for taking on such a project.
Good Luck!
Brian Robson
October 18, 2006 at 4:49 pm #55229Kirk Deason
Participantoh yeah..one more thing…have you thought about brakes yet?
Is your project for class just to build the frame and demonstrate your welding/bending prowess or is the desired end result to have a functioning racing kart?
Keep in mind, this MIGHT get expensive when you start to source parts to turn a roller into a runner. No one is trying to convince you NOT to do this, but rather we are hoping to help you with the REALITY of your project.
My suggestion is to shoot for the ‘yard kart’ style like you see at walmart. You’ll have a much better chance of having a running kart by the end of the school year.
October 18, 2006 at 5:52 pm #55230Kurt Freiburg
ParticipantHere’s a resource for materials. They even have unwelded frame kits.
http://www.mxk.com/racekart/frkituw1.htm
I have some old tires for you also, just give me a call at 970/215-3093.
October 18, 2006 at 7:49 pm #55231RBI
ParticipantLook on the CIK FIA website. They have all of the homologation sheets for all chassis in the world. If you can not find anything send me a PM and I will fax you a chassis homologation sheet. This will help a ton.
Richard
October 18, 2006 at 10:45 pm #55232hotwheels1517
ParticipantIf you build the kart I can help you with providing an Invader brake setup. That includes the master cylinder, caliper and disk.
Brian Moore
October 19, 2006 at 2:30 am #55233fastg
Participantsbc,
check you mail…
Thanks,
Gary
October 19, 2006 at 5:33 am #55234Anonymous
Inactivethe actual project is the chassis, but i want a drivable kart. i have built a yard kart before it was fun when i was young, but now at the old age of 17 lol i want a more street kart. i understand ho big of a project it would be to make one like what all of you have, there for im going far a streetkart, that looks like a shifter.dad was about as happy with my project as he is with my time managment… i have a sweet steering system, no brakes tho, i was just gunna use bike disc brakes, but brian pm me with a price please. kurt what type of wheels? slicks or yard
thanks for so much feed back it really is helpfull
spencerOctober 19, 2006 at 9:59 pm #55235Curt Kistler
ParticipantTry to copy one of these. I heard they are the fastest one’s 😉
October 19, 2006 at 11:24 pm #55236hotwheels1517
ParticipantSpencer,
I will offer the brake system at the great price of “FREE”. There is only one condition I have. If you decide to build the kart it needs to be 75% complete before I will give the parts to you. The only reason there is a condition is that the parts are of value, and could be re-sold to someone that has a kart. I will also say good brakes are a necessity not an option. It does no good to go fast if you cannot stop.
Brian Moore
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