Forum Replies Created
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@Mike Edwards wrote:
Guy’s……..Give back to your local kart shops and buy your stuff from them. Buying a “blueprinted” 206 is a waste of your money. Take that money and spend it on track time, you’ll be faster by practicing than with a “blueprinted 206”.
Just my 2 cents
Mike EdwardsWe are giving back to our local kart shops. Where do you think these tires will be coming from? We are trying to get guys to race in the series that are around town. Show me a deal where you can buy a LO206 for the price quoted on that website around here locally with the same items and I would gladly pay them for it. All of the ones I have found are around the 980 range for a full complete engine with clutch and everything. 600-800 is a lot cheaper than 980. Local kart shops please correct me if I am wrong.
Also we are out supporting the community and practicing. Adam is out at IMI I think today practicing and I am planning on being out there tomorrow and the full weekend (if it doesn’t rain). I missed you at the CKT race this last race. We had a great turnout! And a LOT of fast guys! https://www.race-monitor.com/Results/Session/5707534?sortmode=qualifying Would love to see you come out! The only way we get better is if we race against the other fast guys! 😉
@adam_kasick wrote:
looks like there are actually 3 LO senior classes, like they had last year.. light runs thursdy @ #340, senior on friday @ #360 and heavy on saturday @ #390… this way you can run three classes just by adding weight. i may be interested in going.
Yeah, I saw that! This is how you do different weight classes! 😉 Allows someone to run in all of them if they want to. I am FOR SURE doing that if this is allowed. If you are interested let’s talk some more for sure! I have my trailer but I know you have one too. Mine is a little smaller IIRC. Let me know if you are for sure wanting to go. Keep in mind that I am going to Wichita to pick up my Dad. This means we may not be able to car pool. Though, I know of some others that are going. Maybe we could all get together to chat up the details.
Great deal on the motor for sure! I may want to pick one up for my other kart. Leo may be driving that one. 😉 hint hint Leo, I know you watch these forums 😉 Your old kart is waiting for you…
DUDE!!! What a GREAT IDEA!! :wave You don’t mind if I match it do you? We need more of these types of deals for the LO206ers! :peace
Ditto the same qualifications as Adam has for his (1 set of duros).
I will add. If you (The person who qualifies for either Adam or I promotion) finish in the Top 3 in either of the two classes for CKT I will buy you a set of MG Reds for a CSC race (CSC race optional but why not when you have tires already. 😉 Also we can pit together.).
Yes, the person Adam pays for tires is eligible for the MG Reds.
You must not have raced in or currently registered for the CSC race to win these MG tires.
Two winners of MG tires max.
One set per winner.
Racing in this first CSC race disqualifies you from being able to participate in the Duro and MG deal I am providing.I hope Adam you don’t consider this just a copy. I was looking for something like this from the tracks and what not. But as you decided to go ahead that pushed me over the edge. Great idea and I hope you don’t mind me jumping in!
So, this means we could get 2 new drivers to both CSC and CKT. Ping me via PM or through the website if you would like to sign up.
Looks like the North Texas Karters website has the registration sheet up for the Nationals race. Looks like they are splitting up the 206 classes into different days. Does this mean we could run multiples? hmm I am going to have to give them a call or something to figure out if that is the case. Cause that would be cool being able to run each of those days!
http://www.ntkarters.com/9-hot-articles/111-ntk-to-hold-ikf-4-cycle-sprint-grand-nationals – Here is the article.
http://www.ntkarters.com/images/stories/articles/2016/IKF%204Stroke%20Registration%20Sheet%204_28_16..pdf – Here is the sheet
EDIT: I also just noticed these times start at 6:00pm. This means these are night races! AWESOME! Ok, this is looking better and better. Can’t wait! Anyone else want to join me?
My dad is building a cooling device that will fit in my trailer or outside. I will have it after the July races. I also have a big tent (haven’t tested it out yet will do that maybe this weekend) that will fit a lot of people (10ft x 20ft. but with 4′ more width with the extra poles on both sides making it an 18 x 20.). I bought it to cover my trailer and still have room to work on my kart on the side of my trailer. But we could move the trailer out of the way for a LOT more room. I will have it setup maybe for the next CKT race. Depending on if I can set it up via one person or not. lol
@Jeff Welch wrote:
I have no direct experience with Reds but if you’re doing something like running the rear end super narrow to get grip with Duros, you’ll likely want to bump back out to the 54.5-55″ that most manufacturers recommend when you switch to Reds. They have enough grip to make the chassis actually work as designed.
Great recommendation. I will have to give that a try.
Based on my Chassis (Margay – Brava 4.15) the setup guide recommends only 1″ difference compared to the softer tire vs harder tire. Granted, they also recommend a harder axle for the softer tire. I will send them an email to see if they recommend anything different for different tires as they did recommend +4mm camber for the fronts on Duros. Once I receive a reply I will reply back.
On a side note: I wasn’t able to check my float height tonight. I was busy on the front end. Seems that wall hit at the CKT race messed up the front end and took some time fixing that and also cleaning up the whole kart. Tomorrow I plan on taking the engine down and performing maintenance on the drive area. I will check at that time.
@Rodney Ebersole wrote:
My 2 cents when talking about float ht. and needle pin positions.
The needle has 5 positions from the top towards the bottom or pointy end , the top slot is the leanest slot and the bottom slot is the richest.
Often it is defined as pin 1 as the leanest slot or pin 5 as the richest slot.
To say the “last” position isn’t a good description as that could be the top or bottom slot.The float height is a measurement of the float with the carb up side down.
A higher measurement causes a lower/leaner fuel level in the bowl when running.
The typical range for float ht. measurements is .840 to .900 inches.
It can be confusing as a person will say they raised their float height when really changing the float height measurement to a higher amount when up side down is actually lowering the level of the floats when it is running or right side up. LOL
A .200 change in height would create a problem. I suspect Jdavis-403 made a .020 change instead of a .200 change as mentioned in his earlier post.The .200 change wasn’t in height it was in lap times. 😉 Sorry I should have been more clear there. Thank you for clearing up communication in regards to how to explain the float height measurements. I didn’t adjust the float height by .200 that was my lap time change after changing my float height. I mentioned in that same post that I couldn’t remember/find my notes where I made the change so I couldn’t give the exact amount. I will be cleaning my kart tonight and may be able to get the adjustments tonight. In regards to the pin I am in the #1 spot. Lean as you can make it. 🙂
@Greg Welch wrote:
I’d baseline it with a 3.55 ratio and maybe 12-13 on pressures. Most likely remove any supplemental seat struts you had on it for the Duros. Easy to test just by removing the top bolt. Most Duro guys will end up overstuck up at IMI on Reds.
Awesome, thank you sir! I totally forgot about the ratio. lol 12-13 pressures, I will for sure give that a try. I don’t actually run any seat struts other than the two used to hold up the seat. May have to try that out with the Duro’s!
What a fantastic race! Well ran, and on time the whole day! Had some great battles out there based on what I could tell. In the heat race for LO206 we had a great battle for 2nd place. Looking forward to SBR!
Wow, it seems people removed their own posts. That is a bummer. Re-reading all this like I said I would I really don’t see where I was being disrespectful or trying to take over the class structure. I thought I was having a friendly debate with people. Every post that I made was giving examples of others that have 1 weight class or two. Isn’t a debate where you hear both side and try to get your points out by showing facts and examples? I read my posts as that is what I was doing. If that isn’t what people took from this post I am sorry. Just a friendly debate until Eddy said I was cheating. That is when I got upset but that was only one post. It seems Eddy removed his posts. 🙁 Though, I did quote him to see what he said before he removed them.
@Richard Gordon wrote:
On our Margay, it was undrivable with the lower pressures using Duros. We had the rear ride height in the low position as per manual instructions. Ended up using 18-19psi front and 21-22 in the rear. We could not get any rear side bite without running the higher rear pressures. We really didn’t get to run it much with the Duros, so didn’t get a great grasp of how to set it up. I know we were running around 59-60% rear weight. Hope this info helps.
Ahh that would explain it! Margay specific maybe? What was the track temp with those psi numbers? Or are those the hot numbers? Hot tire pressures seem to be the more reliable number to get.
I don’t know how you guys run with 13 or even 16 tire pressure when it is a cool day like it was yesterday at the race.
I ran a 20psi (cold) tire pressure during the qualify and the heat race and ran some great laps and finished 3rd overall. I then changed the pressures like everyone has been recommending and had one of the worst races I have had in a long time. Granted, I shouldn’t have changed a good thing. lol My fault for doing that at a race… I was struggling to get heat in my tires the whole race. Due to this I misjudged a “semi-flat out” turn and hit the wall due to no grip. Looking at the video I could see I over corrected which means I was LOOSE!!
So, my question is how does the kart feel with tire pressures that low? It seems to me like they are on ICE. I mean duros don’t usually have grip but when I run at least a 20 (hot) tire pressure it seems to work well. Even during the hot days or even cold days. 20 hot psi seems to be where the tires start to stick for me. Granted, I haven’t tried going higher yet.
I am planning on going out this weekend to test this further but just wanted to get everyone’s ideas as to how the kart feels and if you have tried higher pressures?
On a side note: This weekend’s CKT race was a BLAST!!! A lot of GREAT drivers came out and we had some GREAT racing! Great to see all the 206’s out there for sure! We had a total of 15 racers (not sure where the other 5 that signed up went.). Looking at the times and what not it looks like everyone is CLOSE!! Seems like only weight and driving skills are the only thing separating some of the drivers.
Wish we could have those that are not going to these races due to not wanting to run Duro’s. Yes, I heard about how some are not racing this series due to Duro’s and the other series due to MG. I mean really guys? We have some great people out here and the racing is COMPETITIVE!!! We could have a 30+ field if we all showed up. Think about what that could do for the community. Duros vs MG reds. It’s just a dang tire. lol Granted, the MG reds are a little more but I heard they last just as long as the Duro’s. If an extra 150 bucks is really causing you to rethink racing then I recommend a different sport as racing is expensive. lol (This was a joke as I know some are on a strict budget, I totally understand.). But if you are just not racing because you hate the duro’s that is only hurting the community as a whole.
More people who show up = more racing/fun while helping those that come to the track to watch that are interested in karting pick the correct class. This in turn builds the community. So, instead of not racing due to hating duro’s how about you race and help build the community and introduce data and proof that overall MG Reds are a better tire. Being absent is only hurting the situation. I mean I brought up the issue about weights and I disagree with how they are setup but I am STILL going to race. The reason I am racing is because I can still have a BLAST if I am running in a 325 or a 360 weight class. I don’t want to hurt the community just because I have an opinion that we should have two classes instead of 3. Besides, I am planning on racing and paying for both weight classes in the MG series. 😉 That way when I am racing I don’t have to worry about “not” racing the other class as I will be in that class. 😉
@adam_kasick wrote:
for those looking for a starting set-up at action, here’s what i ran today. Chad and I had a good practice and ran almost identical setup’s.
New-Unser racing prepared CompKart Covert 3.0-4
Off the shelf motor… broke in for 10 mins on the stand.
385ish weight18/68 gear
16psi front
17 psi rear (right rear probably needs to be .5-1lb less as it’s all left turns and it heats up quickly)
hiliard flame clutch… 2 black / 2 white
position 4 on needle clip
idle air mix screw 1 1/4and here’s a crappy video from my phone again… (not true braking/lift points as I only had one hand to drive)
track is bumpy and has lots of rocks that get drug out on it.. highly recommend skid plates and sprocket guide as throwing chains will be problematic.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adkkRIEXmKw
if anyone wants to know anything about my setup.. you can ask, or come see the kart yourself on sunday!
:green
NICE! Thank you sir!!! I will add this stuff to the other thread as well. In regards to lap times. What were you running? Also on the tires I assume these were Duros. That is a low pressure. I may have to try that out!
