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Not an expert by any means, but the Duro tire is very hard to get lateral grip with. Seems like a fine line between freeing up the rear of the chassis and getting enough weight transfer. High COG with wide front track and narrow rear track to get the inside rear tire to lift on corner entry is key. Also momentum through the corners is crutial with the low power engine. Hard to give specifics because every chassis is different in what works best. Best way is to do on track testing and try one change at a time to see which changes do what. Make sure your clutch is locking up at a low enough rpm to avoid slippage in the slowest turns.
@Richard Gordon wrote:
Not an expert by any means, but the Duro tire is very hard to get lateral grip with. Seems like a fine line between freeing up the rear of the chassis and getting enough weight transfer. High COG with wide front track and narrow rear track to get the inside rear tire to lift on corner entry is key. Also momentum through the corners is crutial with the low power engine. Hard to give specifics because every chassis is different in what works best. Best way is to do on track testing and try one change at a time to see which changes do what. Make sure your clutch is locking up at a low enough rpm to avoid slippage in the slowest turns.
Great info! Yeah, I forgot about the wide front and narrow rear. And great point about the clutch. I bought an inferno clutch and wanted to add weights but didn’t have the clips needed to secure the weight. SO, if you have one of these clutches make sure you get the weight clips that secure the weights inside the clutch.
Just was reminded if you have a Margay they recommend +4mm camber for duros (obtained that via a conversation with them. Their setup sheets recommend +2mm). And tbh I feel my old kart should have used that as well. I was running -2mm camber in that and had problems with the inside of the fronts wearing before the outside. I think with +4mm that would resolve that issue and I may get more front end grip. Note: 4mm on the sniper is two lines in the positive, 1mm per dot and 2mm per line.
I think seat braces are a good thing to help lift the inside rear quick and to transfer weight quicker. Thanks for the Margay info. We have a Brava 4.11. Works well with +2 on MG reds. You have to get radical with the Duros lol
Just heard that about a 3.77 is what sounds about right for Action Karting. I personally haven’t tested this but others have been. Will update on Saturday once I have had some time to test.
Thank you Richard for the camber for the MG reds. How does life in the tires look so far after a few sessions?
They are wearing well. Was a 68 degree day on green track. Psi around 13. Had to go up and down 1 psi depending on which kart. Think I went up 1 on front for Margay and down on the back one for the OTK. Will have to check my notes to be sure.
I don’t know how you guys run with 13 or even 16 tire pressure when it is a cool day like it was yesterday at the race.
I ran a 20psi (cold) tire pressure during the qualify and the heat race and ran some great laps and finished 3rd overall. I then changed the pressures like everyone has been recommending and had one of the worst races I have had in a long time. Granted, I shouldn’t have changed a good thing. lol My fault for doing that at a race… I was struggling to get heat in my tires the whole race. Due to this I misjudged a “semi-flat out” turn and hit the wall due to no grip. Looking at the video I could see I over corrected which means I was LOOSE!!
So, my question is how does the kart feel with tire pressures that low? It seems to me like they are on ICE. I mean duros don’t usually have grip but when I run at least a 20 (hot) tire pressure it seems to work well. Even during the hot days or even cold days. 20 hot psi seems to be where the tires start to stick for me. Granted, I haven’t tried going higher yet.
I am planning on going out this weekend to test this further but just wanted to get everyone’s ideas as to how the kart feels and if you have tried higher pressures?
On a side note: This weekend’s CKT race was a BLAST!!! A lot of GREAT drivers came out and we had some GREAT racing! Great to see all the 206’s out there for sure! We had a total of 15 racers (not sure where the other 5 that signed up went.). Looking at the times and what not it looks like everyone is CLOSE!! Seems like only weight and driving skills are the only thing separating some of the drivers.
Wish we could have those that are not going to these races due to not wanting to run Duro’s. Yes, I heard about how some are not racing this series due to Duro’s and the other series due to MG. I mean really guys? We have some great people out here and the racing is COMPETITIVE!!! We could have a 30+ field if we all showed up. Think about what that could do for the community. Duros vs MG reds. It’s just a dang tire. lol Granted, the MG reds are a little more but I heard they last just as long as the Duro’s. If an extra 150 bucks is really causing you to rethink racing then I recommend a different sport as racing is expensive. lol (This was a joke as I know some are on a strict budget, I totally understand.). But if you are just not racing because you hate the duro’s that is only hurting the community as a whole.
More people who show up = more racing/fun while helping those that come to the track to watch that are interested in karting pick the correct class. This in turn builds the community. So, instead of not racing due to hating duro’s how about you race and help build the community and introduce data and proof that overall MG Reds are a better tire. Being absent is only hurting the situation. I mean I brought up the issue about weights and I disagree with how they are setup but I am STILL going to race. The reason I am racing is because I can still have a BLAST if I am running in a 325 or a 360 weight class. I don’t want to hurt the community just because I have an opinion that we should have two classes instead of 3. Besides, I am planning on racing and paying for both weight classes in the MG series. 😉 That way when I am racing I don’t have to worry about “not” racing the other class as I will be in that class. 😉
On our Margay, it was undrivable with the lower pressures using Duros. We had the rear ride height in the low position as per manual instructions. Ended up using 18-19psi front and 21-22 in the rear. We could not get any rear side bite without running the higher rear pressures. We really didn’t get to run it much with the Duros, so didn’t get a great grasp of how to set it up. I know we were running around 59-60% rear weight. Hope this info helps.
@Richard Gordon wrote:
On our Margay, it was undrivable with the lower pressures using Duros. We had the rear ride height in the low position as per manual instructions. Ended up using 18-19psi front and 21-22 in the rear. We could not get any rear side bite without running the higher rear pressures. We really didn’t get to run it much with the Duros, so didn’t get a great grasp of how to set it up. I know we were running around 59-60% rear weight. Hope this info helps.
Ahh that would explain it! Margay specific maybe? What was the track temp with those psi numbers? Or are those the hot numbers? Hot tire pressures seem to be the more reliable number to get.
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