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the italian place “pantusos” kicks ass, its a few minutes down horizon from the adams mark, and yes the hotel resturant is aweful
only if you use some of that funky fuel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no seriously, stacey came thru for us last minnute, and he would do the same for you for sure. Its going to be good to have you back Denny, very very good. I look forward to seeing you
no one is going to provide a kart for you, but one thing you could do is what i had to do earlier this year, call stacey and rent out the rental rotax # 18, its a good kart and i got third with it last time. Its a birel chassis also.
the new boxes i belive are not 22mm, if so that DQ’s them from TaG competition, they are already illegal for skusa, so likely they will not be legal out here, hope not becuase they are actually thoughtout, and will help keep the motor dust free
Lol i went in 00 for the first one, great atmostphere, glad ya had fun, we will see you in norway this week
i say VP MS98 for ICC’s, Animals, Tags, etc etc, and C12 for moto engiens, both burn RC3 castor (ecept for 4 cylces odviously) and we wont have this problem
skusa and stars have this, you burn their oil, thier gas, and you dont worry about all this variationActually the reason F1 drivers drive direct drives, is becuase Formula A is the worlds most premeir class of karting. It really isnt all about keeping them smooth, becuase FA doesnt exist in the USA, and champcar drivers drive shifters, tagliani raced his arrow/SRA TM at xplex a few months back. Most all of the new wave of american race car drivers came through the shifter ranks, look at results from 98-2002. FA is twice as popular as ICC, and its a larger, and about as fast class, only a second or so slower. If shifters were “the in thing” over there, they would race those, but FA is the bully on the block
if by tenths you mean 4 seconds and 12mph, lest of course your using that funky fuel, then a rotax can perform pretty well…….
tag rocks, but shifters are the bad boy, i know, i race bothyou could buy a new one stock for about 3400-3800, buy some jets for about 100, and some spare parts for a few hundred. So put that at about 4500, and it should last a season on a bottom end as long as you are nice to it, dont over rev it too hard, and dont run lean. We got 11 outings out of a piston, no blow by whatsoever, we kept it very rich of course, but it wasent raceday so no point. We could have ringged it and lasted a couple more runs. You could probably put a used chassis at like 2500 on a new icc for about 6k. If you want a good long lasting icc, run the fiberglass reeds, keep it rich untill race day, and clean your airbox frequently, or just run a filter on top of the airbox. You should be fine, you will just need to do regular maintanance, piston every 50 liters, bootomend at 230 (TM K9) and a set of fiberglass reeds every season (Carbon reeds every race, 85 for a set). We have had good luck with ours, it just had a water leak and a small hole in the boost port, casting flaw. Barry lewis hasent blown any up or anthing weird, its just when you make it a firebreather with all the pimped out stuff that they cost more then a moto.
for a 7 race CSC, on say a stock TM k9, you could do a piston every 2 races, so like 3 pistons at 85 a piece (whole season) and maybe 2 or 3 rings at 23 a piece. Run the stock fiberglass reeds and you wont have to worry about replacing them the entire season. Get the engine jetted right, they come super rich from the factory, and that will make a huge impact. Alex at DNA down on 285 has a dyno, so that can help ya work with the engine and performance from carb. Probably about a 100 for tubes, mains, piotls, immuslsions, needles, and some spares. Change the oil twice a season or every 5 or so times out if you please, so like 10 bucks there, dexron 3 ATF. Hone your cylinder at the end of the year or when needed.. other then that you should be good, a bottom end over the winter and get all new seals and bearings, so like 500 there, but on a stocker, onl doin CSC and some practice you should be ok for once a year. I have talked to a bunch of guys who just jetted it or threw on a silencer (aftermarket) and ran the whole season fairly cheap. I did the math, for a new engine at 3500, plus expenses is about 4500, add premix another 2 or 300 so lie 4800 (includes the end of the year work)
MG reds are ok, the Vega reds are, well, ill let someone else chime in. Best bet is YHC. The whites are great for shifter, not a super soft tire, but a softer one.
Scott, tag is Touch And Go, standing for electric start engines, plz stop asking the same questions over 2 fourms, call IMI or bandimere and ask your questions, they would be more then happy to help you out.
