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Josh
This winter we will be doing a series of them. In addition to the chassis, we also want to take a look at the care and feeding of your Rotax/Leopard and data collection and use.
We will be there as well as some of our customers. We do not know which classes we will be running yet.
What about VP MS93? Jim has a couple of barrels he might make a good deal on. The higher octane stuff requires different jetting.
The main jet can not be adjusted. It can only be changed from one size to another. At this altitude, your jet sizes will be between 150 and 158. The main jet is located under the 19mm bolt on the bottom of the carb.
As karting shows go, I think it was one of the better ones. There are only two or three I think were better (that I’ve seen), the Stars event at Infineon, the SKUSA PMT event in Barrie (never made it on TV but it was some of the best footage ever recorded), and the first SuperNats at the Rio dome for HDTV. In particular, I liked the low angle stuff at the sweeper, it really showed the speed of these little toys. Also, the over head at the chicane was good for showing the speed.
Just bend the bracket. It will work. Do not modify either the bracket or airbox if you want to run RMax Challenge.
We knew the track record was in danger of being broken. We certainly tried to do it and did. But we could only squeak out a 50.721. Congratulations Ben for a job well done. You had your ducks in a row and deserved it.
1. No
2. If you’re talking about the pinch bolts in the cassettes, yes. It your talking about the cassettes, No.
3. No
4. No
5. That’s up to you. Once you get it down, you can do it in 15 minutes. How many beers do you need for 15 minutes of work?
6. A 3# hammer is more than enough to wreck it.The first thing you should do is clean. Clean the axle, clean the cassettes, clean the bearings. Dirt is your number one enemy so clean it up first. Remove the set screws completely and wash out the set screw holes. Dirt will be in them and it will make you job much more difficult.
The next thing is polish the axle. Use 320 or 400 grit cloth for this job. There will be burrs, nicks and other damage from rocks hitting the axle. When you try to shove these burrs and nicks through the bearings, it comes back to bit you.
Spray the axle/bearing interface with some penetrating oil. Take your hammer (soft faced) and gently tap the end of the axle, it should move with some difficulty but it should move. If you have been using the set screws to hold the axle in place, it may take a bit of persuasion to get it moving.
The set screws really screw up the axle surface. As soon as they are clear of the bearings, take a file and file the axle smooth where the set screws have been digging into the surface of the axle. Continue to persuade the axle out of the kart and keep checking for burr and dirt. If you get dirt in the bearing/axle interface, it will start a gaul and there is nothing you can do except beat the axle out, then throw it away.
Once the old axle is out, get a hold of a ball hone of the correct size and do a quick hone of the brake hub, bearings and sprocket carrier. It will make assembly much easier.
If you do a good job of cleaning before you start to remove the axle, your job will be simple. If not, you will need every bit of that 8# BFH to get it out.
And one more thing, an axle removal tool is very helpful once you get to the bearing.
What took him so long, record is 24.99 seconds.
http://www.floridawintertour.com/gallery2/d/794-5/wtcc.wmvIs this a blister or what! I think we hit the perfect storm on this one. IMI has always been a track tough on front tires. The high speed and banked nature of the turns always puts a lot of pressure on the fronts. The combination of new surface, very hot track temps and track characteristics all came together at one point to create problems.
I’m not trying to say there is not a problem with the tires, I’m just saying that I would bet that if temps were just a bit cooler, there wouldn’t have been a problem or if the track had some slower flat corners, we wouldn’t have had this problem. On the other hand, I would have been interested to see if a B’stone YJB would have had the same problem in those conditions.
Blistering Mg’s is not a new problem. Curt can speak first hand to a MG red problem in Utah last year. There were also a lot of blistered front Mg’s Yellows there also which is why they switched to reds. At the end of the season last year, I remember more than a few blistered front tires at the last CSC at Centenial before the track cooled when it rained.
Overall, I really like the MG yellow. It gives good grip and seams to last a long time and not fall off. But I do think it has a problem with heat.
Rick
I’m sure the lower temps helped and may color the results more than a bit. That’s why I put the question mark in! Actually he changed axles and while it didn’t feel overly stuck, it sure made a big change for the better in the handling. As he related to me, it didn’t feel like it was pushing but after the axle change, it really didn’t push!
Greg blistered a couple of fronts. He stayed and tested afterwards and he thinks they found a cure? Hats off to Jay for figuring it out. If I remember correctly, last year there was some complaints of blistering tires in hot sticky conditions.
You can buy hex sockets from Sears that will work. They were on sale last week for $20.00 for a set.
