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Ahh, OK, that is what I was thinking but was not sure. So I should do 2 separate entries. Pretty sure our helmets are OK being snell 2010, but didn’t know if the other stuff like suits and gloves need some sort of certification. Also are specific type of neck devices required?
Few questions. Do you use the extra class option if you have 2 people signing up? So say my son is running LO206 325, I sign him up for that class at $85 and I want to race the same class, I would put my name in for the extra class at $20? Also, are there any specific safety gear requirements? We have snell 2010 rated helmets, but is anything else required to have a certain certification? Hope this all makes sense.
My son and I will be running in the 325 class at GJMS. We are both right at that weight when the full is gone. Don’t want to have to bolt a ton of weigh on either kart, so light it is.
Those were cold psi. I don’t remember off hand but it was early fall. Want to say air temps around 75-80.
On our Margay, it was undrivable with the lower pressures using Duros. We had the rear ride height in the low position as per manual instructions. Ended up using 18-19psi front and 21-22 in the rear. We could not get any rear side bite without running the higher rear pressures. We really didn’t get to run it much with the Duros, so didn’t get a great grasp of how to set it up. I know we were running around 59-60% rear weight. Hope this info helps.
They are wearing well. Was a 68 degree day on green track. Psi around 13. Had to go up and down 1 psi depending on which kart. Think I went up 1 on front for Margay and down on the back one for the OTK. Will have to check my notes to be sure.
I think seat braces are a good thing to help lift the inside rear quick and to transfer weight quicker. Thanks for the Margay info. We have a Brava 4.11. Works well with +2 on MG reds. You have to get radical with the Duros lol
Not an expert by any means, but the Duro tire is very hard to get lateral grip with. Seems like a fine line between freeing up the rear of the chassis and getting enough weight transfer. High COG with wide front track and narrow rear track to get the inside rear tire to lift on corner entry is key. Also momentum through the corners is crutial with the low power engine. Hard to give specifics because every chassis is different in what works best. Best way is to do on track testing and try one change at a time to see which changes do what. Make sure your clutch is locking up at a low enough rpm to avoid slippage in the slowest turns.
Got the wheels and tires listed on eBay. They are listed separately. Here are the links.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Douglas-M-series-front-mag-racing-go-kart-wheels-and-Duro-tires-17mm-DSM-/222088419440?hash=item33b5805870:g:tqYAAOSwubRXEaVY&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Douglas-M-series-Go-Kart-racing-rear-wheels-w-Duro-tires-Metric-pattern-/222088416187?hash=item33b5804bbb:g:gBUAAOSwubRXEaMc&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duro-Excelerator-Go-Kart-tires-10×4-5-5-New-set-of-2-/222088410512?hash=item33b5803590:g:3XwAAOSw2GlXEaDCI just ran a sticker set today. They are slick as grease the 1st few laps. After 4 10 lap sessions turned a 66.85 second lap clockwise at gjms. Very little wear on them after this too. I think they will be good.
Well that stinks. Hope you don’t have to buy them for each weekend. If so, we won’t be running the series.
