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Bummer! The LAKC will gain a couple of great competitors.
I would check in with Blake Craig at Tru Tech, and maybe even talk with his brother Jake about track support. They are two of the best people in the SoCal region in my opinion. We also recently did some work with Seth Nash at Nash Motorsportz and he would be another great guy to talk to that supports the OTK product that you already have.
As long as you run some PKC stuff I’ll see you out there. We never miss the chance to go drive at Adams or run the Streets of Lancaster race.
Richard,
The Kosmic I have would be a great option but may be just a hair out of the budget. I do have a 2006 CRG That I could build with a brand new LO206 and a new set of Duros and it would come in at $1,900. The other option would be to find a used engine as we are only asking $800 for the roller so if you could find a $400-500 engine package it could be a pretty inexpensive way to go.
Great job with Hannah Rick! Cool to see two CO drivers up there. Here is a shot of Adam on the podium.
I have some customers that run 9, some 13, and some 25. I would start the day at 25/28 pounds and test in 3-4 psi increments going down. There isn’t really a right answer, just whatever works best for you.
In general most people prefer the higher pressures. On my personal kart, I run them at 12 hot, so ~10 starting.
It has been great having you guys out at the track. Good luck next year and let us know if we can do anything to help!
By roll out I mean circumference.
Reset the front height back to even on both sides. Get your 20-30 pounds mostly in ~5 pound bricks, and you can play with where you put them to get the weight balance closer to where you want it. I’d mount pretty much all the lead to the seat as the chassis are designed to hold driver weight in the center.
Keep in mind about 90% of karters don’t ever scale their karts.
I wouldn’t offset the ride height, it will drive weird on track.
Did you check tire roll out or just PSI?
Don’t know for sure since we are not on that side of the hill, but I think an 18/61 +/- 2 would be a decent starting point. That track will be tricky to gear for and will probably have a lot of different ratios that will get you to the same lap time, but be fast in different areas of the track.
I am pretty sure the Flame can run either direction, although most of the karts I build end up with the chain furthest inboard on the kart (away from the engine) just because of clearance issues on the seat struts. The sprocket should not have very much lateral play, you should use one or both of the large shims that come with the Flame to capture the sprocket and hold it to only ~1mm lateral play.
We had a great time and attendance was good. Thanks to everyone that came out, see you all next weekend.
Justin had a great walk through in this video. I’ll add that if you DON’T have a Sniper there is a way to easily check your sweeps with a tape measure to see if they are off and you need an alignment. It can require somebody to hold the other end of the tape measure for you.
From a place known to be the same on each side of the chassis (inside of yoke, top of king pin bolt) hook the end of your tape measure and have your friend hold it. Measure across the kart to the opposite spindle. You can measure to the bolt on the spindle arm where the tie rod tube connects in. Turn the steering fully and measure to the farthest out point the arm goes before it starts to move back inside. Repeat on the other side to see if this is the same, if it is off then you need an alignment!!
This is NOT a super accurate way of doing it, but if you don’t own a laser tool it can be a quick way to check if you need to get an alignment done.
If you don’t check sweeps when doing an alignment you have not done it right! You need to check them because it truly centers the tie rod connecting plate, and makes sure the kart turns at the same rate in both directions.
