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I wouldn’t offset the ride height, it will drive weird on track.
Did you check tire roll out or just PSI?
Just psi. Not sure what roll out Is? I was wondering about moving spindle height, but manual called for that to adjust weight 5+ lbs from LF to RF.
Note: I did check the circumference of the tires. The rears and front are real close to equal. I’ll double check though.
By roll out I mean circumference.
Reset the front height back to even on both sides. Get your 20-30 pounds mostly in ~5 pound bricks, and you can play with where you put them to get the weight balance closer to where you want it. I’d mount pretty much all the lead to the seat as the chassis are designed to hold driver weight in the center.
Keep in mind about 90% of karters don’t ever scale their karts.
Thanks for the info. Afraid that the chassis might not be completely square since the RF is lighter than the LF. I moved the seat about 1/2″ forward and left. Will see what that does. Also made sure the scales were completely level. Will weigh again tonight. Ordered some lead blocks too. I used to race cars and know how important weight and balanced handling can be. Figure since karts have less tuning tools on the chassis, it is even more critical to get the weight distribution where your want it. With the low and equal HP of the L206, handling is even more important to gain an advantage over the rest of the field.
Richard, you may want to give Greg welch at Unser (he’s the Greg that’s been posting) a personal call as he straightens chassis. I’m not sure what the charge is, but he’d be the local guy that could get you pointed in the right direction if you’re looking to start with a solid base.
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