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Start with the following
Centennial 12/80
IMI 13/76
GJ 13/76Some guys run more, some less. The above will get you in the ball park
Bill
It is geared a bit low. We run an 79/80 on depending on conditions. But your driver also has to learn to carry more speed through the hair pin. We don’t drop below 7,400 and gearing alone won’t make up the difference. All things being equal, each tooth is good for about 200 rpm. So 4 teeth will only bring it up to 6,000.
As your friendly neighborhood kart manufacturer, if you really need to spend that much, I just want you to know that I’m here to help you.
AS Garrick pointed out, a Tag kart is the best place to start. Which engine package is really that important starting out. We could go on and on about which is “best”. One thing that is critical is that you understand that karting is not nearly as simple as it appears. Learning how to drive a kart quickly takes time. You will need assistance. Come to the races, go to the shops, ask a ton of questions. Listen to the answers a bit sceptically. Take your time.
If you think you’re not sure about the sport, a used kart maybe the best choice. But remember, a used $3,500 kart can quickly cost as much as a new if there are problems. Also, be realistic about your budget. If you have barely enough money to buy a used kart, you most likely don’t have enough to race it. Racing, even a go kart, takes time and money. If you do your own work, you will need at least 2 to 3 hours off track for every hour on track.
One huge advantage to buying new is the support you get after the sale. Left to your own skills, it may take a year or two to learn how to drive quickly. With the help of a shop, that time frame can be shortened significantly. While a new kart is expensive, the mistakes you will make on your own are more so.
Doug
No need for the 11 tooth driver in Colorado. We use a 12 at The Track and a 13 at IMI and GJ.
For rear sprockets, you will need the following
76, 77, 80, 81For a master weight kart, add a tooth or two to each size.
For grease, you can use any thing you want. I use a Motul product but white grease or any good wheel bearing grease will work.
For oil, I use a straight 30w motor oil. Non-detergent if you can find it.
For jets, you need most of the stuff in the 15X range.
Jerry
Most CR125 have the power valves plugged. No need for them, we never run that low in the power band. Most other brands of moto based engines also plug the power valves if they have them.
For a senior engine, we normally run in the 152 to 160 range.
For a junior engine, run in the 148 to 158 range
For a MiniMax, you may go as small as 138 to 145.
A DD2 runs in the 160 to 175 range.These are ranges. I’ve seen one senior engine that loved to run in the high 140 range.
Actually 2 cycle engines are slow to return to idle. In racing situations, it really never totally cuts off as there is so much fuel in the bottom end, it keeps running. If it set to idle, it just take longer. The clutch doesn’t have time to disengage. Remember, in racing situations, you are either on the gas or on the brakes, never coasting.
We warm ours on the stand using the brakes to load the engine. Just revving the engine on the stand does little, same as driving slowly around the track. Always get the engine to 100 deg minimum before getting rowdy. The Rotax runs a bit warmer than other engines. We have one that will not run below 135. 135 to 145 seems to be the sweet spot for most Rotaxs. This time of year its a bit of a challenge to get them warm and time consuming. You don’t want to rev and load them much but I’ve seen temps at start up of 52. You have to gently rev them till they get in the 70 80 range, then start loading them and working the throttle to get them up to 100. Then it still seems that you have to drive with your arm over the rad to get them warm enough to have fun. Plenty of tape helps.
The problem of fuel cutoff at the end of a straight is more a problem of air, too much of it, not fuel or lack of it. It a problem a new driver shouldn’t even worry about as he won’t be pushing his motor hard enough on the straight for it to be even a remote problem.
Just warm it up before geting silly and drive the crap out of it.
