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Hello Richard, IMHO, although there isn’t a LO206 specific “Forum” here, there certainly is a lot of info to help get a new karter started. I have wheels and tires you can use to run RTR. Just let me know if you are going to show up so I can make sure I’m there to support you. The class structure as far as the kart chassis size, spec fuel and engine requirements/rules are the same for RTR’s as most everywhere in the country, i.e. IKF and WKA. The only difference as you may know is the spec weight/tires and rear wheel sizes are a bit different 7′ vice 6″. All the LO206 racers at The Track at Centennial are very helpful and would certainly help you get rule compliant to run with us.
Lastly, Colorado is only in it’s second season of LO206 racing at TTAC and it’s going strong but with anything new we’re still working out the kinks. I agree that it would be nice if we could run the same rules everywhere, however, the difference at this point should not be a show stopper. The decision to run the Duro tires and wheel sizes were all aimed at saving money for the entry level karting racer/family. Most believe it is working. The numbers show TTAC is on a good program.
If I can help you with your LO206 questions you can give me a call. 719-591-1854 leave a message if you don’t reach me, I’ll call you back.
Good Luck
Respectfully,
Eddy
:coSo in talking with Stacy, maybe you could post LO206 info specific to racing at GJMS on the GJMS thread. :type:
Richard
Look on the general forum, there’s lots and lots of good info for those starting out. For example, the tips and tricks thread that Adam started this year and other related post/threads. Weights are posted on the Track at Centennial website and LO206 weights are also found on the PPKRC website. Additionally, you can find weight info posted by many folks on this website. Good luck.
Respectfully,
Eddy
:readMany thanks to all who supported the KRFH’s race at TTAC. Although, I missed the RTR’s night race, it appears, looking at Mylaps today, there was a great turn-out. :clap:
Respectfully,
Eddy
:coCool Leo. If you’re interested, there may be an opportunity for you to be a team driver. See Craig or me first thing Saturday morning nlt 0800am. :driver
Respectfully,
Eddy
:coWeather forecast looks good for this Saturday’s Kart Racing for Heroes and Racing the Rockies. Let’s DO This!
See you all at The Track at Centennial.
:flag
EddyHello Richard
Suggest you try 1 and 1/2 to 1 and 3/4 turns out on the mixture screw, and pin setting clip in the 2 position for the altitude at GJMS. With the engine running hold the throttle at about 2k rpm set the idle screw there an then back it down to about 1700 to 1800 rpm once the engine is at normal operating temps. That should get you close to the sweet spot.
Hope that helps,
Eddy
:coHey Adam
We missed you last race. On the GoPro vids, Richard was posting links last season of RTR vids, both RMAX and LO206. You can find them on youtube.
Hope that helps…….
Eddy
:coThanks Craig for the update…… Looking forward to the first “Kart Racing for Heroes” event at TTAC. Night Race too, Yeah- Boyeeeeeee! Many thanks to all who put this together and made it happen, great people at a great kart track. :jump
Yes Jeremy, loved the close competition. Props to you, you were fast and raced me clean……
Looking forward to Race#7….
Have a great week ALL!
Eddy
:coGreat talking with you again last race at TTAC Doug. Join us in the 206 class. Most fun I’ve had in karting in years.
Eddy
:coBrett
My understanding from the super tuners is basically, with track width constant, increasing or decreasing the length of the hubs can add or decrease bite or grip on turn in. Longer hubs more bite, shorter less. Sometimes referred to as altering the length of the working axle or spindle stub.
Using the hubs you have already, you may be able to accomplish about the same thing by increasing or decreasing track width accordingly. If you’re looking for fine tuning, then you may want to get different size hubs. That would be my suggestion. Oh yes, check the rules on track width limits as well.
Hope that helps.
Eddy
:coAll
For those of you who know me, know I’m an advocate for managing cost for all the obvious reason, some stated here. However, this subject in my mind has to do with moving the class out of a rental kart tire grip level to a racing kart tire performance level (improvement in overall handling). We all know improving lap times is relative when everyone runs the same tire so its a non issue and should not be a reason to change in my humble opinion.
:coffee
I do know this, I ran some used MG reds off my old TAG Kart at the last 2 “Run What You Brung” races with little to no wear. Most importantly, I wasn’t wondering if I was going to spin out going into corners not knowing the grip level limit.This topic will most likely continue to come up for all the reasons being talked about in the Drivers community and on this thread.
However, in summary, my support goes to stay with the Duros for a minimum this racing season (2015).
Have a great year everyone and welcome to the new racers.
Respectfully,
Eddy
#12 LO206 Med/Sr
:co
