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Rick Schmidt
ParticipantFor what it’s worth;
The Crg family of karts can have a little slop in the lower steering bearing when new. It seems the od of the lower bearing is a little smaller than the id tubing in slides into. I just slightly oval that tubing at the bottom of the steering shaft where the bearing resides and it does not move.
You can get quite a cumulative amount of slop with a little in the tie rods, a little in the bearing etcc… Next thing you know you are experiencing a 4-5 mm toe change under loads.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantPretty soon you guys are going to have to tow bar the old mini van behind something because there won’t be anywhere to sit! :loony:
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantWe hauled a Superkart all over the country in the back of a full size Ford van. Had to tilt it a little to get it through the door opening. then it sat on a rack that was built over the wheel wells. Plenty wide and we stored gear under it.
There was even room for my leathers and lace up Simpson driving boots. Lol
Rick Schmidt
Participantby sjpkarter on Thu 06 5, 2008 11:16 am
Maybe next time out at TTAC I’ll see if I can’t put it on the edge and chip it down to 5.500 minutes this time knowing that if I have a major off splints and braces should be covered…
Sheldon
Based on the above comment. You should have inquired as to Kaisers preventative (driver development) allowance! Might save them money in the long run. 😕
Rick
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantHey Sheldon,
Haven’t had any issues with racing and my health insurance and like Charles I have used my health insurance for injuries directly related to racing.
However, my uncle was my insurance agent and told me I would have been much better off securing my life insurance policy before engaging in flying helicopters and flying the Alaskan bush, much less racing.
For whatever it’s worth.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
Participant146 – 158 would more than likely do it.
The smaller the number the leaner the jet.
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantScott,
I don’t know how long you have been running the Rotax, so don’t be offended if you already know this.
All good advise you’ve received on this thread. One of the biggest things new Rotax drivers need to adjust to is, not letting the slide close all the way. You don’t have to power brake the hell out of it, just keep the slide lifted enough for the brakes to be effective. If you do let the slide slam shut, the carb goes back to the idle circuit and takes time to create venturi vacuum causing a delay or as some call it “a bog”. Also, don’t just jamb it coming out of a corner, just give it what it can take and ease into it.
A 152 jet does not sound that bad. The Rotax seems to like fuel anyway. There is inconsistency between the different engines and carbs. Our first Rotax would require a 148 jet when everyone else seemed to run a 155. Last years motor never saw a jet leaner than 155 in competition. (qualifying is a little different) If you lean it to where it gives you an occasional (one a lap or so) pop, you’ll probably be ok. We found we could go lean and be fast for the first handful of laps then it would start to lose some power. It’s a trade odd for sure. The Rotax has a pretty small radiator and a pretty big carb. Possibly check your float level if you haven’t done so yet. And keep the carb clean. We also had problems last year using the Rotax legal fuel filter. Our problems sound somewhat consistent to what you are experiencing on top. The filter element media seems to be breaking down and getting inside the carb.
Roman ran a 12-80 gear at the Rotax Grands, (clockwise) and had a trap speed of 79 mph at the braking zone going into one. (mid 56 second laps) Gearing is always some kind of compromise. At The Track in a Rotax it seems the hairpin is the corner to concentrate on, if you can’t get off of the hairpin, it’s going to be tough to generate good lap times.
Also, as has been mentioned numerous times, battery charge has an impact on the motor being able to rev as well as the exhaust packing baffle. Stick a flashlight in the end of the pipe and make sure there are no breaks in the perforated tube you wrap the packing around.
Be religious about cleaning your power valve and carb is the best practice.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantAll who miss out on this great offer can stay at Choppers for as long as needed :redmen
Rick Schmidt
Participantby Doug Welch on Wed 03 5, 2008 7:38 am
The Italkart is made by SKM and those components are readily available here in this country. WE can get them. Most of our components interchange with Italkart.Doug
http://www.shockwavekarting.com
Doug Welchby stacey cook on Wed 03 5, 2008 7:10 pm
We are also a dealer for Italian Motors and do have some SKM parts still in stock with a few SKM’s still on the floor at GJMS…Grand Junction Motor Speedway
Where things are Happening!!Apparently there is SOME support here already. These are some replies from a thread back in March of this year.
Just an Fyi if you’re searching for information.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantI think one was Chopper! 😯
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantA true hard kart driver would simply chew through the flex till it was at the desired length Kirk.
Man up!
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantSome of the ribtec seats are deeper than the euro seats (does it wrap around) that come with the karts.
If you have access to a standard seat you can measure for the differences, then follow your recommended set up dimensions.
So you and Kirk Deason are going to be running in packs huh? The other “Hard Kart” out there.
Glad to see you getting back into the seat. Some of your car experience will help your kart driving for sure.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
Participantby Chuck D on Fri 05 16, 2008 8:09 am
Done this before….handling didn’t turn out so well for me considering I botched how far back to put the seat
At least you had it facing the right direction Chuck.
Rick
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantWhat are you putting it in?
Most manufactures have a recommended seat placement.
Rick Schmidt
ParticipantPoor Doug,
You make one little mistake and get sent to the back of the line again!
Makes me laugh. Good stuff.
Rick
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