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Tim,
Check out the Zamps.. they are very affordable and great helmets.. http://www.zamp-racing.net/
We have them in stock at GJMS…
For what it’s worth… CSC rules say thusly:
2.2.1 Helmets: Must be a full face helmet designed for kart or open wheel auto racing. Must meet Snell K-98, M95, or SA 95 standards or better. Note: the chin bar must be an integral part of the helmet structure. Motocross style bolt on chin and face protectors do not meet these Snell standards.
As for brand/model, try some on and see what fits best within your wallet’s capacity. I’m running an HJC CL-SP and have been happy with it, although (knock on wood) I haven’t really tested its capabilities… 😯
I think I’m getting an HJC AR-11 for this year.
http://www.extremesupply.com/hjchelmets/hjchelmetsar.htm#ar11I’d been using a M rated helmet I got for track lapping days (street cars).
Fuzzy:
I use a Bell GTX. Love the helmet w/ one caveat…the lower extension on the front hits my neck collar (which is tall) when I turn my head. I will probably use a smaller neck collar this year to alleviate the mild discomfort after a few hours at the track.
As good natured as I can make this sound…”$5 head, $5 helmet…how much is your head worth?” Seriously, there are many other pieces of equipment you can change out later…don’t skimp on the brain bucket. As I’ve read above, you are getting great advice…go with what is the most protective and most comfortable ~ that’s why they call them “accidents” and not “purposes”.
Happy equipment shopping.
Troy
Well i was told by ImI that the snell 95 were no longer acceptable per WKA rules…..only snell 2000 and up…mine is a SA95 so I figured I would buy a new one.
Rick does that leather one come with a scarf….you one of the real long ones I can flip over my shoulder like a pilot and goggles.
So the CSC rules read that and other racing bodies say something else………..well Im not sure who to listen too about the rating. I know snell says you should replace the helmet every five years if I listen to that its time.
Keep giving me advice Im listening.
Tim
Fuzz Motorsports
4 cycle #16by fuzzy on Mon 01 14, 2008 2:11 pm
Rick does that leather one come with a scarf….you one of the real long ones I can flip over my shoulder like a pilot and goggles.
Tim
Fuzz Motorsports
4 cycle #16It used to. I fact I havent seen that in a while? I think it got tangled in my chain or something.
by TG Smith on Mon 01 14, 2008 2:04 pm
As good natured as I can make this sound…”$5 head, $5 helmet…how much is your head worth?” Seriously, there are many other pieces of equipment you can change out later…don’t skimp on the brain bucket.
TroyYou porr guys, having to wear a helmet and everything. All I have to do is put a Bell sticker on my forehead. (or 5 head as my Dad teases me) (or “Rick you have a forehead all the way to your a$$, a my cousin teases me) Wait… Everybody teases me about my slightly thinning on top head.
Oh well. Seems I even do it. :bang
@Rick Schmidt wrote:
Garrick,
Just stand the head in your avatar up with photo shop. 😉
Ya know, I actually considered that as a stopgap measure ’til I can get back out on the track. That was the only decent shot my wife got (the sun was going down fast). [EDIT: Done!]
Maybe I’ll just start wearing two neck braces stacked on one another. :joker
I think there are three major differences between “M” (or motorcycle) and SA (or special application) helmets: the SA helmet is fire-retardant and also tested for repetitive (vs. single) blows, since it’s intended for auto racing where the helmet is likely to clunk against a roll bar. The M helmet may have a larger viewing port (on the assumption that more peripheral vision is a good thing on the road, but not so necessary on a track.) The “K” designation was intended specifically for karting, but I’ve never heard of any real differences between it and an M helmet (nor have I seen very many of them around.) I believe you’ll find that all three designations are accepted in karting, as long as they’re of appropriate vintage. (I THINK that’s 98 for K and 2000 for M, but you’d be wise to double-check that.)
We’ve had Bieffe, Zamp, and HJC helmets and fortunately never had to really test any of them. But the Zamp had problems with the vents breaking off in record time. (To their credit, Zamp did offer to send replacement vents.)
Great question Fuzzy. This is something that will be inspected prior to all CSC races this season. Please make sure that the SNELL rating is still attached to the helmet, and the rest of the helmet & visor are in good condition. Without the proper rating you will be forced to find another bucket for your dome prior to taking the track.
We will also be looking at proper rear number plate color, transponder mounting, lead mounting, safety wire, double nuts, fluid containment and a few other things the CSC has been loose on in past years.
Step it up gang, there is a new sherrif in town, and he learned from the best.
Hey Sheriff, I mean Sheriff (I’ve been watching, i say I’ve been watching a lot of Foghorn Leghorn lately) 😀
what I want to know is what is the proper way to position your transponder?I say thankyou, I say Thank you in advance…
Great question Fuzzy. This is something that will be inspected prior to all CSC races this season. Please make sure that the SNELL rating is still attached to the helmet, and the rest of the helmet & visor are in good condition. Without the proper rating you will be forced to find another bucket for your dome prior to taking the track.
We will also be looking at proper rear number plate color, transponder mounting, lead mounting, safety wire, double nuts, fluid containment and a few other things the CSC has been loose on in past years.
Step it up gang, there is a new sherrif in town, and he learned from the best.
sheriff,
Are you really going to be checking for “double nuts” before each Csc race? 😳
Most important thing to consider when buying a helmet is fit. If it doesn’t fit well, not only will it be uncomfortable, but it might compromise safety. You want a helmet to fit snug to the point where there are no pressure points and it needs to be snug…not able to move around on your head at all. Also, people commonly say that you need to buy the helmet that fits your head shape. Some people have an Arai shaped head, some a Bell shaped head, Zamp shaped head, etc. Head out to a motorcycle shop somewhere and they can do a better job (than i can over the interwebs ) of explaining how a helmet should fit.
With that said, buy the best helmet you can afford. Don’t skimp on this one…it is your head! Granted theres a lot of controversy over buying a $700 helmet that has met the exact same certification standards as a $70 one, but that extra cost comes in the form of comfort, fit, and build quality…and typically you’ll see the high end companies brag that their helmets ‘surpass Snell (DOT, ECE, whatever ) standards’. Oh, also, most manufacturers recommend replacing helmets after 5 years regardless of whether they’ve been uh, tested, due simply to the fact that the combination of sweat and UV rays will begin to break down the lining/foam and outer shell and reduce its effectiveness. Or…so ive been told.
As far as SA, M, K ratings go, it makes sense to me to buy one that fits the application you’ll be using it for. Granted, i dont know if theres any, or much, difference between the different ratings, but i figure they were designed for that specific purpose. K-rated helmets seem to be kind of hard to come by, but they are out there. I just bought an Arai SK-5, which is K rated (and desperately in need of a paint job! :loony: ). Snell’s website ( http://smf.org/ ) has a lot more info on the subject if your interested.
Well…thats probably more than you needed/wanted to know….but hey, thats how i roll. 8)
(i could go on for a lot longer, i really could! 😯 )
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