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Oh, one more question, can a 4stroke motor go in any chassis? If not, what is the difference between Kart Chassis for 4stroke vs 2stroke?
@CameraCourage wrote:
Oh, one more question, can a 4stroke motor go in any chassis? If not, what is the difference between Kart Chassis for 4stroke vs 2stroke?
Depends on the motor. The new versions drive on the outside and they will will fit on most chassis. The inboard drive engines like the Biland, need a chassis with clearance between the back cross bar and the axle sprocket. The back cross bar in the frame is on an angle on most chassis and therefor inboard drive engines will not fit. A 4 cycle frame has this bar in straight.
@Doug Welch wrote:
@CameraCourage wrote:
Oh, one more question, can a 4stroke motor go in any chassis? If not, what is the difference between Kart Chassis for 4stroke vs 2stroke?
Depends on the motor. The new versions drive on the outside and they will will fit on most chassis. The inboard drive engines like the Biland, need a chassis with clearance between the back cross bar and the axle sprocket. The back cross bar in the frame is on an angle on most chassis and therefor inboard drive engines will not fit. A 4 cycle frame has this bar in straight.
Ahh good info, thanks!
I am not looking for the cutting edge, fastest cart on the track right now, I am looking for reliable first.
The TAG 4-strokes are the cutting edge, they are fast on the track and they are the most reliable.
In the hunt for a Kart, used is probably going to be the way to go. What should I be looking for? What are common problems and failures to keep an eye out for?
Thanks everyone you have been very helpful with my questions, I really appreciate it.
The main thing to look for is flat spotting on the under side of the chassis. The components may look great, but if the frame tubes are flat spotted, the frame is gone. A small amount of flat spotting is normal and not of concern. But if the flat spotting is more that 3/8″ wide, I would steer clear. The main places to look is under the waist and under the rear bearing hangers.
In my experience, I usually see that you have to put so much money in a used one to replace components to make it reliable, you would be better off buying new. Tht is not to say there are not good deals out there. Some equipment is very well cared for and if the guy is getting out or changing classes, you may well get a ton of spares for free.
Thanks Doug,
I think I am going to look at a used 4 stroke. I was looking at a few of the 2 stroke models and I would definitely go new if I were to go that route. I figure with the 4 stroke motor allowing for so many more hours between maintnance that there should be good chance that you can find a used kart, with some scratches and all, but that will be in perfectly fine condition to go race.Is there anything else that I should be looking for any other common mistakes when buying used?
Camera,
Go with what is well supported in your area. Gp, Crg, Birel, Shockwave, Arrow, Margay, Intrepid all have readily available consumables and racers with knowledge to help with tuning, spares etc… Sure I missed someone, but you get the idea. Nothing worse than getting a great deal on something and needing parts or support and coming up dry.
There were several racers at Imi & The Track this weekend. Go out on a nice day and talk to the “end user’s” for a neutral view.
There are a lot of good deals on used karts right now and if you use common sense it may not be a bad way to go. You don’t want to buy used then turn around a few months into it and have to buy new.
Call Kartworks, Imi, The Track, Shockwave, Grand Jct Motor Speedway, Billett or Action karting Action Karting. Down south is Cre. Get a feel for the sport and who you feel would be good to work with. Even if you buy used, your still going to need support.
Good luck & Welcome,
Rick
While I see that long term 4 strokes will be “the future” it may take a while for that to occur. As a relative newby (I got my kart July 2006) I suggest that you look for a good used kart to get started. I’ve seen a couple of good deals posted on this site for not much more than a new chassis alone. That could get you started and well on your way having fun while you decide on the details of 4 vs 2 cycles after several times out at the tracks. By then you could decide to stick with a 2 cycle or buy a new engine 4 or 2 cycle, while selling off the old engine.
Personally, and I could be wrong, engines need a re-build based on how hard and hot they are run. If you are not racing or only starting on a club race here or there then I suspect you will be able to make a Leopard last a lot longer than 20 hours (assuming you run it a bit rich and cool). Now if you are racing every month or try to get everything out of the engine each day at the track then that 20 hours will happen at 20 hours.
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