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Tilt the kart up on it’s left side while spinning the rear axle, this should burp any air. But be sure to check after the first stand warm up.The Vampire does not “air lock” too bad.
Rick
For any Rotax n00bs… Since the water pump is internal to the engine, turning the rear axle won’t do the trick on the old FR125. I just fill my rad up very slowly, making sure the stream of water gets down into the guts of the radiator without splashing. The idea is to let the water level rise slowly and displace the air so there’s little if any to burp. You can run the engine briefly on the stand (or long enough to get warm if you have a thermostat), then pop the cap off to see if it’s burped, but I’ve still never had to top it off after the initial fill.
Goes without saying to drain the water out following the session… Many more sub-freezing nights ahead. 😥
Garrick,
Ricky’s axle is always spinning. He was all ready on it, knowing Timmy was playing with Vampires. 👿
I like to leave the cap off and make a mess.Rick’s got it of course.
Just to add some info for other people who might find this later through searching…
Garrick’s note regarding spinning the axle applies to moto-based shifter engines, and Rotax DD2s as well. All these packages have internal water pumps.
It’s also worthwhile to note that if you’re using a Shockwave Triple Pass radiator, because of the way it’s welded, you need to tilt the kart up on it’s side PAST vertical in order to get it to burp properly. Otherwise, an air bubble will persist in the radiator that you won’t be able to get rid of. Any other radiator should do fine if you simply tilt the kart to near-vertical.
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