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The video ain’t really a tool, it is just karts racing and differnt camera effects and hardcore music.
We snapped the seat struts off our Tractor Magic after powder coating. The shop that provided our coating had some pretty high tech chassis in their shop when we did business with them. Anything from Jr. Drag’s to Upright Sprinters, to show cars….
I assumed they knew what they were doing having said they coated many kart chassis over the years. Maybe it was just a coincidence, but I personally think if it’s not blasted and stripped properly you may have some potiental problems.Ben,
Seat time is the best training tool. Where were you on Saturday?The temps used in powder coating are not near high enough to affect material strength. Bead blasting, maybe, but I find it very hard to believe. Most chassis are powder coated at the factory. It’s the best, cheapest process for a frame.
Kart chassis do break over time. Over the years, we’ve broken several parts. The Parolin karts always break the seat strut by the motor if you drive them hard enough. I’ve welded several of ours. I’ve also see the strut that holds the tank/steering column break, right at the bend. Drive a kart hard enough, you will break them. If you haven’t broken your kart yet, you need to go faster!!!!!! Just kidding.
Just like seats. Both boys break their seats the first time out. Jeff always breaks them right in the top center back. Greg breaks them on the side. They usually break in the first session. We get 6 months tops out of a seat.
:argue
Gentlemen-I think what is the issue is more of the removal process for the old coating than the new P-coat-When you are going to have the chassis blasted inqiure what media the blaster will use-Aluminum oxide is what they will try to use as this takes the least time and you will want it because you are paying by the hour- 😥 DONT DO IT!!!-it is very sharp and if over done will actually etch into the metal and create stress risers = CRACKS!!! Insist on poly beads,corn sileage or walnut shells-it will take longer to remove powder coat but WILL NOT damage the base metal!
The cooling process after the powder coating may also be suspect-if the item is cooled too rapidly you may be inducing some embrittlement to the parent metal-very critical with CRO-MOLY-that is why a knowledgable welder of CRO-MO will pre-heat the weld area then reheat and possibly peen the area after welding-Granted the the temps involved in powdercoating are low 375 to 450 but you could shock the metal some what by cooling it too quickly. I used to tig weld aircraft components and quite often we would send the parts to be stress-relieved and annealed before returning to service. I dont know if the chassis manufactures do this when the karts are new-could be some of the reason Doug for early strut failure-Check out http://www.ctsshifterkarts.com Good info on the CRO-MOLY issue :cheers:New price range as I found another place
Best price found: $90-$175 (blasting $40-75) (powder coating $50-100)
depends on color (one color) and status of frame before blasting; don’t use beads said a mineral is used?
Other than Mike Jensen anybody else interested???
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