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I haven’t had to service my starter (yet), but I understand the starter is the same as that for the Leopard engine, even if it’s mounted a bit differently. The Leopard manual has a procedure, including helpful hints on retaining the brushes during rotor replacement and securing the brush wires with silicone:
http://www.artkart.lt/championkart/manual.pdf page 35
On my starter, which AFAIK is still functional, I get 0.5 Ohms between the power plug and a randomly-chosen bolt head on the engine (hey, I’m a Mechanical Engineer, not Electrical, OK?). Dunno if that’s a significant difference, considering how beat-up my multimeter is. Is there any sign the starter is even trying to turn? Is the reducing gear seized up with gunk? The one time my starter wouldn’t crank, the fix was a new battery and dielectric grease on the terminals. I know you say your battery is new, but stranger things have happened… Consider getting a spare battery (you should have one anyway) and try it or someone else’s “known good” battery before doing any serious teardown.
Garrick,
Thanks for the info, the manual really helps! My background is electrical (I designed, installed and troubleshot aircraft electronic (avionics) systems for around 20 years before getting into sales). The battery is new and works well. The starter won’t even turn when I jump it with the car. I suspect that the brush leads may have frayed or broken and are shorting out to the case. I think I will bite the bullet and pick up a brush set and try that tonight…
Wow. Bad battery. Starter worked great hooked up to the minivan with jumper cables. Just pushing the kill switch in drops the battery to 2 volts. Will see if it slow charges tonight….
From what I’ve heard jumping the battery with a car can be very damaging. You might want to pick up a battery tender.
I didn’t jump the kart; I attached the starter to the minivan battery with jumper cables. I do have a slow charger for the battery and it indicated still on charge this morning, so I am going to get our battery shop here at work to test it….
@Scomo wrote:
I didn’t jump the kart; I attached the starter to the minivan battery with jumper cables. I do have a slow charger for the battery and it indicated still on charge this morning, so I am going to get our battery shop here at work to test it….
Ohh, I see. Sorry for jumping to conclusions. I was just trying to help. Hope it all works out well for you.
D fresh,
No problem. Got a new battery from Billet today and will see if that fixes the problem…apparently the “cheap” batteries available for karts these days generally do not last the weekend.
It’s a crap shoot… I’ve been using an Interstate battery with good results (knock on wood). I’ve also heard of the spec Rotax Max battery giving up quickly.
Some cheap batteries are as good or better than the $100+,rotax batteries. second year with my interstate battery. ($20.00) :loony:
Put the new battery in and it works better than ever. I think the battery I got with the kart was bad out of the box…
Interstate has always been a very reliable replacement brand. I had one in my Toyota pickup and it lasted 11 years. Would you have a part number for the kart battery? I’d like to have one as a spare.
Woo hoo, now I can play hooky tomorrow and head to The Track!
I got an Interstate BSL1075, but I have an older wiring harness that presses on to two male spades at one end of the battery. I dunno about the newer-style harness with screw-on terminals located on opposite ends of the battery.
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