Tag class questions.

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  • #40619
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I’ve been out of racing for a while and was thinking about getting back in. Went to IMI a few times over the summer, Bandimere once. Was thinking about getting in the tag class, but then I read an add for a fast tag that raced IMI. In that add they state that the motor had been gone through and the crank modified from the box stock to run truer than stock. I thought this class was supposed to be a “bolt the motor on strait from the box” class, tune your chassis, carb, exhaust and the best dirver wins class. If this is the norm, I want no part of this class. I had to quit before because of the expense. If I have to have my future motor machined to keep up than this is not the class for me. From my motocycle days I know how hard it is to tech a cut head, and other small things.

    Am I off base here or is this what is going on in the class.

    Art

    #48543
    Marc Elliott
    Participant

    Art, i assume you know that when an engine blows up in the lower end that it needs to be trued if the crank is out of alignment. I think what he means by its better then factory is that its in the minium set requirements. I saw one guy not true his crank after a lower end, and lets say this, it blew up a lot more.

    #48544
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Marc:
    I didnt think of the bottom end problem, but most of the time wouldn’t the crank need to be replaced anyway, so why the need for machining? I don’t think I would trust a crank to turn 14000+ after it had went through a bottom end failure.
    I don’t want it to look like I am singling out this kart or driver or machine shop. I just wanted to know if machining box stock motors is the norm or the exception before I buy something. I would rather go with the ultra fast shifters, but the budget won’t let me. The budget will let me run a box stock class, if this actually is one.

    Art

    #48545
    Brad Linkus
    Participant

    You cannot machine the crankshaft on any TAG engine and be legal. It is common to rebuild the crankshaft with a new rod, crank pin and bearing. Then the crank is reassembled and trued. Most factory cranks are trued to within .001″ runout, we try to true cranks to .0003″.

    #48546
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Blink:
    That answers part of my questions. Thanks. The rest of my questions will come out in time.

    #48547
    Taylor Broekemeier
    Participant

    Couldberacin,
    I see the concern you have about our class, and your right, it most definetly is a STOCK class. I didn’t think about it when i posted that my crank had been trued to run within 1/4 thou. Marc is right; I did a bottom end rebuild after blowing the main bearings and replaced the rod bearing and pin, main bearings and case seals. When the crank was reassembled, my motor builder was able to true the crank within a 1/4 of a thou. which turns out to be better than stock. There was no “machining” to the crank to achieve this runout, it was simply a replacement of broken parts with OEM parts.
    Hope this clears it up for you and we’d love to have you racing here in CO!

    #48548
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    What are the pros/cons between the Sonik and Leopard motors? The sonik looks like is a much quicker motor, and Im thinking about switching over.

    #48549
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    @streets2trackracer wrote:

    What are the pros/cons between the Sonik and Leopard motors? The sonik looks like is a much quicker motor, and Im thinking about switching over.

    I don’t run a sonik, so I don’t have any personal experience with them but they do seem to blow up “quicker” 😉

    #48550
    Jim Keesling
    Participant

    Art,
    I love my Sonik. It twists fast, has low end power and is easy to tune. I have had a problem with my chain getting to tight and ruining the bottom end. Once I started using the proper chain lube, This probelm went away. So far, I have had no problems this whole year. The motors are great for a “heavy” (185lb.+) driver.
    $.02 worth.
    Jim

    #48551
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I’d be interested in switching over if i knew the Sonik was pretty reliable. How many hours do you get between rebuilds? Would it be that big of a difference to me (i weigh 150lbs)? Just want something that can compete at IMI, as well as Bandi….as it seems Rotaxes win at IMI pretty much regardless.

    #48552
    Taylor Broekemeier
    Participant

    I go about 6-9 hours before I do a top end on my Sonik. As for the bottom end, I won’t go past 400 miles because it let go once at 560 miles. It took me a few bills before I got the hang of it but now it is just as reliable as any other engine along as you take care of it like you would change the oil on your car.

    Dane, you wouldn’t be talking about me now would you? 😆

    #48553
    Kyle Ray
    Participant

    I thought that the TAG rules were no mods on engines all u have to do is take it out of the box and bolt it on but it sounds like to me that people/ teams have been blue printing their engines to perfect factory specs or even better than perfect factory specs. Thats a shame because i got a TAG kart so i could just race so i didnt have to worry about sending off my engine to get it blue printed and spending $ on the engine.

    correct me if im wrong

    #48554
    Taylor Broekemeier
    Participant

    Kyle,
    Your not wrong in the sense that the TaG class is a stock class. This is still true. Modifications are NOT allowed, but when something happens to your engine like blowing the bottom end then there is a need to rebuild it (with OEM parts, not aftermarket bearings, etc…). You have to disassemble the crank to replace a rod bearing and put it back together (as in my case). It is impossible to return the crank back to that exact spec that it came from the factory with after you reassemble it. You simply want the crank to run as true as possible. Making a crank run true has nothing to do with modifications, there is no modifying involved, it is just rebuilding it so it doesn’t wobble and come apart at 18,000 rpm. Wobble could also blow your main bearings again and you’d have to start the whole process over again.

    #48555
    Ben Schermerhorn
    Participant

    TaG shouldn’t be about which engines faster, it should be about driving skill and chassis tuning. Just my .2 cents.

    #48556
    Marc Elliott
    Participant

    Blueprinted motors and drivers should be DQed regardless of the excuse. TaG is driver and chassis, making it more expensive will kill the class. BTW you do have to true a crank when they blow, you just cant modify it.

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