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Sheldon,
I’ve had this problem. I used external snap ring pliers to pull the baffle out as far as possible. It usually stops with about 1/8″ of the baffle sticking out of the pipe. Then take a pair of vice grips and latch them onto the exposed edge of the baffle. You can then use a hammer or mallet to tap on the vice grips, which will pull the baffle out. Spray some lubricant on the end of the pipe and baffle before you try this.
Charles
BTW, I usually found that 10 hours between replacements was too long. I usually replaced at about 7 hours because that’s when I would start to find evidence of the baffle being scorched.
Charles
Old packing makes things difficult, seems like it’s more stubborn when it has a lot of hours. Also, you might have the old style stinger (Rotax updated it) that tends to break at the furthest end. I’ve been through several, so I feel your pain. Once I upgraded to the new style (read: better built) stinger I haven’t had problems. Unfortunately your best bet is to just pull on it until it comes out. That old packing might be stuck to the walls of the pipe, so you might need something long you can stick down In there and hook on to the packing.
Tip: Stick a sticker at the end of the pipe closest to the U-bend. When the sticker starts to discolor, it’s time to change the packing.
Sheldon
I have a slide hammer that works great on knocking them out. Bring the pipe by the shop, only take a minute.
Slide hammer is the only way to go. It always works on the first try and there is no headache involved.
Thanks to all for your responses, and a special tip of the Hatlo-Hat to the Shockwave bunch for your Rotax exhaust system proctology services. Did the trick as predicted, and, also as predicted, no headache afterwards.
I know I can always count on you guys for friendly help with my Shockwave machine, along with the occasional juicy doggy greetings from your two furry assistants as well.
Sheldon
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