- This topic has 15 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 21 years, 10 months ago by
.
- Posts
Rich,
Thanks for the potential DNF problem! Did you have to replace the gasket once you split the case? Is this something we can work on? (sounds like it) Where did you buy the gears and gasket? Let me know and I’ll take a peak at mine once you let me know. Thanks again.
BTW, how did you bend your axle @ GJ?
yeah could u please tell us where you got them and how much they were?
I normally check mine and replace mine mid season, as well as during the winter. I think we got our last sets from Acceleration in Vegas, as for prices I can’t be sure, but after look at Speedquest’s site I would imagine the idler gear, the two balancing gears and the case seal should set you back about $60.
Mike, yes you can remove the side cover w/o breaking the engine seal.
And be sure to fill the case back up with oil to the recomended level before running the engine. I have heard a few stories lately about people not refilling the case.
I bought these pieces from Speedquest at the beginning of the year and $60 sounds like about what I paid for them. I haven’t had any problems with these gears yet, but that’s probably because I keep breaking everything else! Several of my kart buddies in California have had problems with broken gears, though.
Guys,
Dane is right on.
Easy to work on, just remove the side plate. If you are careful you can re-use the gasket (buy a spare though). For convenience you need to remove the motor off the chassis. When doing this you don’t have to worry about the seal as it is not attached to this side of the case.
A word to the wise. After my first season I didn’t check the gears. The shop told me they were toast. You have to be careful because the water pump runs off the gearing-no pump no water circulating high temps and cook the motor. If you haven’t checked it I gaurantee you will find wearing of the teeth.
Order your parts NOW! ~$75 look at your manual for part numbers.
I always go to Acceleration Kart Racing in Las Vegas, but John Schmitz is the local parts and rebuild rep at KDS in Evergreen. Neil at Speedquest is great also!
I think the curbs at GJ done me in. IMI (Brad) was able to straighten it out. Is was only out of round by 0.015″ in some places. I am not sure that was the problem will find out this weekend at IMI for practice.
😳 :idn:
Your balancing shaft may have been misaligned or skipped a tooth hence giving you the vibration which may have been assumed to be an axle.
You should know as soon as you go out….! !Superslow,
Give me more info on the balancing shaft. How can that be missaligned? No teeth were busted.
Now you have me really worried. Do the gears have to mesh in a certain order? I was wondering that as I was installing the new gears. I marked them and tried to get them aligned in the same order.
:idn:
thanks i have been wondering because my freinds gears broke and it cost him about 120 to get evertthing fixed on his kart
To follow up on Rich’s post —-
KSD has there shop in Denver at 2121 S. Platte River Drive. That’s Evans and S. Platte River Drive. SW Corner. Same bldg where Courters had their shop.
The shop phone is 303-936-8568.
They’ve got lots of ‘Tax parts, and Travis Roberts is doing the rebuild/sealing work. They’ve also got lots of Wild Kart parts. They’re making Lightning karts in the shop so if you ever wanted to see how kart chassis are built. They’ve still got a few DFM rollers in stock at very good prices and have stocks of parts for Brembo brakes.
They’ll be moving to bigger/better digs up near Kipling/I70 in the next few weeks.
hope that helps
@Rich Vito wrote:
Guys,
Dane is right on.
Easy to work on, just remove the side plate. If you are careful you can re-use the gasket (buy a spare though). For convenience you need to remove the motor off the chassis. When doing this you don’t have to worry about the seal as it is not attached to this side of the case.
A word to the wise. After my first season I didn’t check the gears. The shop told me they were toast. You have to be careful because the water pump runs off the gearing-no pump no water circulating high temps and cook the motor. If you haven’t checked it I gaurantee you will find wearing of the teeth.
Order your parts NOW! ~$75 look at your manual for part numbers.
I always go to Acceleration Kart Racing in Las Vegas, but John Schmitz is the local parts and rebuild rep at KDS in Evergreen. Neil at Speedquest is great also!
I think the curbs at GJ done me in. IMI (Brad) was able to straighten it out. Is was only out of round by 0.015″ in some places. I am not sure that was the problem will find out this weekend at IMI for practice.
😳 :idn:
Superslow,
After talking with Curtis Coksey at Acceleration Kart Racing You are correct that the Blancing gear went out of alignment.
There is a specific way that the gears have to align when re-installing!
Now that the kart is all ready to go for practice this weekend, I will have to remove the motor from the chassis again and align it correctly.
Guys, after I do it I will post here the correct way of aligning the gears in detail. Get use to it as you will be doing this.
Curtis said if it jumps out of alignment it will just vibrate the kart to no end. That is what I was feeling in GJ at the CSC race. So I don’t think it was my axle or my tire.
Superslow hit it right on the money. Hey what number are you and why are you superslow? what division do you race in?
😳 :idn: :cheers:
Rich,
Check out the repair manual online for the Rotax (the most powerful engine in TaG) and it shows the alignment necessary for the counterbalance via the gears. Just thought I’d let you know…
Superslow must be one of those ICC guys that is FAST – when the engine doesn’t go BLAMMO… after that its superslow 8) 😥
Just how many engines went blammo at CSC race #2? Doug Welch and Josh Fellows to name a few…
I thought an F1 race occured and everyone was running the Mercedes engine :puke
Rich,
Yes the gears have to be aligned in a very specific order. Even one tooth off knocks about a thousand revs off the top end and gives you vibration. Download the engine service manual and you will see the marks which have to be lined up or PM me and I will e-mail the manual to you.Apologies I did’nt see all the related posts before I replied…….I’m an ex rotax racer who (tried to) run one for a few years…….
Rich,
Look likes my thought about the gears was correct. It sure does make the seat vibrate!!!!! Luckily, it’s a pretty easy and cheap thing to fix.
Just wondering, who out there has had KSD work on their equipment? I always send mine to Acceleration in Vegas.
Tom
Guys,
After removing the motor three times (I am good at this now) and testing at IMI on Sat everything is fine–it was the gears.
The proper procedure to use is in the Rotax 125 repair manual that you can download off the MAX site.
You will need snap-ring pliers, two new snap rings and a gear set, gasket. Just note the gears as you take them off-the two large ones are flip flopped.
Most important: Alignment on the left side gears is a 2-mark alignment straight up (12:00) and alignment on the right side gears is a 3-mark alignment (~11:55 position).
The replacement above seemed to change my gear selection by 1 tooth on the rear.
Cost was about $60-$70
A lesson learned!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.