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…..ready for lockwire…..I would appreciate it if anyone could let me know where (if) these can be bought……
I would prefer not to use another 10 drillbits or so.
PS Lockwire has got to be the most superfluous requirement I have ever seen…….I’ve never seen those.
However, safety wire drilling doesn’t have to mean a ton of bits down the drain.
I recommend you get a drill guide block for safety wire drilling. That, cutting oil, a few really good bits and a slow drill press will do the trick. You’ll get nice, centered holes, clean threads and you can do the whole kart plus spares in a couple hours.
If you don’t have the press and don’t want to buy one, get everything else and bring it plus a few Fat Tires over to my place some weekend or evening and I’ll help you out. We might get it done with one bit, but get 4.
Safety wiring is a job that should be done right. A properly drilled bolt is really important.
If you really think lockwiring is “superfluous”………….. well I would’nt want to be your insurance underwriter. There isn’t a type of motorsport that I’m aware of that doesn’t require safety wiring and there are damn good reasons for it, not the least of which is the poor bugger on your tail that has to take that nut or bolt in the face or chest when it comes off your kart at 50 mph or dodge the flying debris when you flip because your right front side came apart because the nut holding the kingpin fell off.
It’s a pain in the ass to have to go through a kart that hasn’t been prepped for wiring, but it’s better than what might happen if you don’t do it. And its the rule.
PS: If you don’t have a safety wire twister/pliers, get a set of those, too. They make real nice, strong and proper twists in absolutely no time. Great to have.
@Superslow wrote:
…..ready for lockwire…..I would appreciate it if anyone could let me know where (if) these can be bought……
I would prefer not to use another 10 drillbits or so.
PS Lockwire has got to be the most superfluous requirement I have ever seen…….Thanks for your generous offer Chaz, a few fat tyres are a small price to pay for the tricks of the trade. I think I will certainly take you up on that once the machine comes in as anything we debate on the lockwire issue will not change the rules in the next month or two I am sure. But just so we have both points of view……here goes…..
As to the requirement for drilling and lockwiring I’ll have to disagree with you on it being necessary. I think this is a “left over” from the days of castellated nuts and no such thing as a nylock nut.
– Wiring going through the nut weakens it substantially, never mind introducing the need for it to be replaced each time it is taken off or on (if it is to be done right, otherwise it leaves us worse off as we tighten ’till we can line it up).
– Wiring through the bolt only will only stop the nut from falling off, once it has worked loose you run a greater risk of the bolt or other part shearing anyway (ever seen a wheel come loose and what it does ? ?)
I believe the requirement should be for nylock nuts to be installed on all steering / wheel / critical parts with all nuts in good condition with a minimum of 1.5 threads showing above the nut. (If any nuts look well used or worn in tech, they are loosened and if can be moved by hand require replacement)As to getting something hitting me from a kart in front I would worry most about
-Lead, and if you had me teching karts I think I would ban the diver weights as they weaken the seat with their points of contact. On the weaker seats I could easily see a whole lump coming off.
-Battery boxes on tag’s, many of the mounting systems (especially leopard with cast frame mounts) can crack easily upon contact and let fly.
– Any fluids, I know a bit off the point but the catchtank regulations could really do with a bit of tightening up……! !Just my 2c………….. but for the record I have been hit by lead in a kart twice, once doing my leg in (I can show you the marks, no long term effects thank goodness) and the other time smashing my helmet (and changing the country’s regulations on lead fixing).
You can buy bolts already cut for the wire safety clips – I believe these are able to replace safety wiring in most places.
Mr Fleming, only old aviation equipment used lockwire, as no effective locknuts etc were available. As to any upper classes of motorsport these days you won’t find lockwire anywhere near an F1 car or any of the higher formulae – it’s just not needed with effective fasteners.
I agree a nylock nut used 1000 times would lose it’s effectiveness, about 10 uses is enough which is why I said that tech should identify this. If you go to any major kart events outside of USA you will find no other karting bodies require lockwire, and they don’t seem to have any problem.
Given that lockwire is not used on wheelnuts in karts are you saying that you change your wheelnuts every time you take off your wheels ? ? ?We do actually use new nylocs every time we change wheels. It is cheaper to put on new nuts each time, than it would be to repair the damage done if a wheel were to come off.
If you are serious about using high quality hardware in your kart, you should contact the “Skybolt Company” located in Leesburg Florida.
(http://www.skybolt.com PH800-223-1963).
They have fasteners drilled, locking, quick release and stuff most people have never even thought of…The cost of many of these parts is not much higher than the full threaded hardware store crap usually found on karts.
If you really wish to learn about aerospace quality hardware and its correct usage, you might want to obtain a copy of Carol Smiths “NUTS BOLTS AND FASTENERS”.
While geared towards formula cars and sports racers, much of the information also applies to karts or anything else for that matter.
It is amazing to me, as fast as top level karts go, they are held together with garbage grade nuts and bolts.only old aviation equipment used lockwire, as no effective locknuts etc were available.
Next time you are around any, both old and new, aircraft, take a close look. You will see safety wire used in a lot of places. The reason for this is simple, whenever you have vibration, you have the opportunity for ANY locking fastener loosening up. Nylock nuts are only good for applications that are not in a heat zone. Anywhere you have heat, the nuts need to be metal lock type and, as a “safety”, safety wire.
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