Bearing Cassettes

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  • #41316
    Kirk Deason
    Participant

    I have another newb question. When disassembling my kart, i found the nuts/bolts on the ‘inner’ rear axle bearing to be loose. Let me explain. This is the bearing that sits to the inside of the sprocket carrier. The bolts on the other bearings are tight but i can rotate the bolts on this inner bearing with just finger pressure. Are they supposed to ‘float’ for heat/friction reasons? The nuts are not loose, but the bolt/nut combo will rotate. There seems to be no danger of anything coming apart because the nuts are tight (locknuts, I assume). Just curious. Thanks for your help everyone.

    Kirk
    Team HARDKart
    Birel Spec

    #52831
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Kirk,

    Most guys run the 3rd bearing or inner bearing loose, to loosen up the rear end. It allows the axle to flex. Some take the bolts out completly and just put wire ties in the bolt holes. I just keep my bolts loose.

    thanks
    rich

    #52832
    Kirk Deason
    Participant

    Thanks Rich, I did not know that was a tuning item. A post on the Easykart board also suggested running with the rear bumper loose.

    As a followup to the bearing question above, does that mean the bumper or the straight cross-piece? Does one just loosen those nuts (and they won’t fall out?) holding the cross piece?

    As a sidenote: I have installed my decals (they look great), the motor is off so i could clean everything, I tried installing my seat tonight by following the easykart chassis setup guide, no dice. I have to come back and reevaluate my approach. Luckily I didn’t drill any holes yet.

    Kirk

    #52833
    Rodney Ebersole
    Participant

    Kirk, They are talking about the rear bumper. Take it off and see how the rubber gromet is used to keep it on. It can be tight to where it would be hard to twist one side of the bunper in the hole or it could be loose and twist easy.
    On your seat, the first secound or third seat that you mount will not be in the right place for it to work the best. Once you get it where you think “they” want it. You might as well make a few more sets of holes for easy track changing of seat adjustment to add in testing of where it works the best for a given track,driver and conditions.
    I have heard of some of them crazy racers using zip ties in these holes as well.

    #52834
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Kirk,

    the Freeze Man has got it right!

    I readjusted my seat as it was too far back-that’s why I had push problems all last year. What a pain it took patience and alot of time. Be care full the left seat lip is suspose to be 3/8″ closer to the front frame rail than the right lip. The idea of drilling a series of holes to adjust at the track is what I did also.

    While your at it drill holes for attaching wts.–Top left rear of seat; left side of seat; lower left side of seat; center front under seat; left and right front lips of seat. Have your drilled bolts, nuts and washers, clips ready–~3 sets. Wts in spare parts: 2#, 5#, 10# (2 of each)

    Remember what Dog said at the chassis seminar: your seat should look like swiss cheese–the seat one of the few Major tunning devices on a kart-it will radically change the kart.

    On my CRG they tell me to keep rear crash bar tight. Diff karts diff specs.

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