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1. You’ll need to buy race entry, series entry(if you plan on racing again) and a pit space
2. I believe you’ll need the drivers license too, which if I remember correct is $25 – its been a year since I’ve raced at the track
3. There is a place on the registration form for your transponder number, just write it down there
4. There is a pre-tech form, but I dont know if it is available online. Basically it wants safety wire or nylock/metal lock nut on steering and brake components, a safety cable from the brake pedal to master cylinder, and all weights must be safety wired or double nutted. In RMAX series any weights over 6 pounds must also use 2 bolts. I would also paint the weight white, can’t remember if that is a RMAX rule or not, but it applies in most forms of karting.@Greg Welch wrote:
I would also paint the weight white, can’t remember if that is a RMAX rule or not, but it applies in most forms of karting.
OK, I’ll bite… Is that to make the weight easier to see (look less like asphalt) if it manages to come off of the kart?
Yep thats the thought. I know its a rule in IKF, and I think it is in many other series. I hit a 5 pounder with the bottom of my seat once at the Florida Winter Tour, and I must say it didn’t feel that great.
I’m also hoping to make it out to my first race that same weekend, and I have a few more quick questions:
I’ll be running in Rotax Sr., is there a spec fuel/oil I’ll have to use? If so, where can I get it?
What are the numbering/decal requirements?
Does each class race separately, or are they grouped together based on speed/ field size?
My wife has to be somewhere Sunday evening, about what time do the races usually conclude?-Randy
There is spec fuel and oil, you may pick it up at The Track at Centennial. Shell 91 fuel with Rotax XPS oil.
For senior use a 3 digit number starting with 1
Senior and Junior typically race together
Usually out of the track by 4pm
Thanks Greg! One more question that just popped up as I was going over my new (to me) kart: it has an older rebuild on it and it doesn’t have a bottom seal (according to the engine I.D. card one was never installed), is this a problem? I have a spare fresh motor that has both seals, but I was hoping to save that till after I got some experience.
-RandyYou will need an engine with two seals on it. Was the last person into that engine someone here in town? If their name is on it last they may be able to put a bottom seal on it. If not we can put the bottom seal on it for you, just have to take the engine apart to double check everything.
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