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I think the new rules are pretty clear…….
If you start off with the TAG class “catchphrase” which is “if it does not say you can do it then you cannot……”, it’s pretty clear.
The dellorto can have any jet changed, (main jet, needle jet, pilot jet…)and also the slide, which is now included. For the butterfly carburettors you can add a washer to the stock “slow jet” and change the throttle linkage (to get over the tillitson weak point as fitted to leopards.)….and that’s it…….
Tom if you argue that other components should be changed then others will argue theat the tillotson shaft and butterfly mechanism can also be changed. Before you know it you are into big money carburettors, not to mention three different ones for different conditions and preferences.
The idea of the class is that a novice can buy an engine and have as much power as the guy who won the last race. By introducing special modifications and anything other than standard jetting I think the cost and difficulty to get to the front on driving skill alone rises, which is a bad thing.
I’d avoid any tinkering at anything other than the above as I think it goes away from the spirit of the rules and also runs a high risk of being illegal.The leopard is usually safe up to 1050, after that you are on your own…..! !
I’m not sure what, if anything, knowing the approvimated air fuel ratio will do for you ?? ?Tom if you want to learn about the dellorto I have a very good explanation document I will send to you if you PM me with your e/m address as it is a very big file.
Tom you seem to be the only one that thinks jetting refers to anything other than jets and fuel metering components. I would completely disagree with your interpretation.
Personally I do not see how jettign can include a slide which changes teh flow around a diffuser, if so, why is the venturi which does the same thing not legal as well.
I think we all need to get a clarification on this from our proposed technical scrutineer (whoever that is).PS you can also weld a washer to the slow running jet to allow you to tune it whilst out on the track….! ! …that’s probably the obvious one……..
I’m assuming the section you quoted is in TAG, and again I’m assuming it refers to butterfly carbs.
The arm and lever I expect is mentioned because they want to allow fixing the tillotson weakness of the mounting point coming off the end of the butterfly arm. The reason they say arm and shaft remaining standard is because they do not want to put a special high flow butterfly and shaft mechanism in it’s place.
I’d say the washer reference is also to the tillotson type carbs where some people like to add washers between the needle jet and carb body to improve sealing. Also, if the carburettor is set up so that you need to have a number of turns out on the jet they are a help as otherwise they have a tendency to fall out.I have dealt with these guys once and found them to be a bit of a disaster.
Not only did they not stock the parts (they expected the manufacturer to ship directly) they “dropped the ball” completely and I received the order 1 months after ordering special delivery of 2 days.
Just my experience….maybe someone else has a nice story about them..! !Mr Fleming, only old aviation equipment used lockwire, as no effective locknuts etc were available. As to any upper classes of motorsport these days you won’t find lockwire anywhere near an F1 car or any of the higher formulae – it’s just not needed with effective fasteners.
I agree a nylock nut used 1000 times would lose it’s effectiveness, about 10 uses is enough which is why I said that tech should identify this. If you go to any major kart events outside of USA you will find no other karting bodies require lockwire, and they don’t seem to have any problem.
Given that lockwire is not used on wheelnuts in karts are you saying that you change your wheelnuts every time you take off your wheels ? ? ?Thanks for your generous offer Chaz, a few fat tyres are a small price to pay for the tricks of the trade. I think I will certainly take you up on that once the machine comes in as anything we debate on the lockwire issue will not change the rules in the next month or two I am sure. But just so we have both points of view……here goes…..
As to the requirement for drilling and lockwiring I’ll have to disagree with you on it being necessary. I think this is a “left over” from the days of castellated nuts and no such thing as a nylock nut.
– Wiring going through the nut weakens it substantially, never mind introducing the need for it to be replaced each time it is taken off or on (if it is to be done right, otherwise it leaves us worse off as we tighten ’till we can line it up).
– Wiring through the bolt only will only stop the nut from falling off, once it has worked loose you run a greater risk of the bolt or other part shearing anyway (ever seen a wheel come loose and what it does ? ?)
I believe the requirement should be for nylock nuts to be installed on all steering / wheel / critical parts with all nuts in good condition with a minimum of 1.5 threads showing above the nut. (If any nuts look well used or worn in tech, they are loosened and if can be moved by hand require replacement)As to getting something hitting me from a kart in front I would worry most about
-Lead, and if you had me teching karts I think I would ban the diver weights as they weaken the seat with their points of contact. On the weaker seats I could easily see a whole lump coming off.
-Battery boxes on tag’s, many of the mounting systems (especially leopard with cast frame mounts) can crack easily upon contact and let fly.
– Any fluids, I know a bit off the point but the catchtank regulations could really do with a bit of tightening up……! !Just my 2c………….. but for the record I have been hit by lead in a kart twice, once doing my leg in (I can show you the marks, no long term effects thank goodness) and the other time smashing my helmet (and changing the country’s regulations on lead fixing).
Make sure you run the big axle as well, would not want to rip a mere 40mm off the bearing hangers would you…….! !
A couple of interesting changes to last year’s weight differences, unless I have lost my memory….
So what’s everyone getting… ? ? ? (That new Biland must be a rocket..! )I expect it would be your battery or the bendix gear on the starter itself could have dirt on it, or be sticking. I would clean the starter thoroughly and then try a different battery to see if it makes any difference. There is nothing in the starter box that can really go wrong. The green button just connects the power to the battery. Hence if the motor turns over at all you probably have to look elsewhere for the problem.
