LO206 chain and sprockets – school me please

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  • #44216
    Leo Ahearn
    Participant

    OK, so doing all the data gathering on the LO206 for the front range this season. Current direction is a fairly modern TaG chassis. Yea I know I may need to move the cross rail, notch it, or go to a jack shaft for inboard chain clearance. We’re talking Masters here not a kid or junior variant BTW. Will be a 40 or 50 mm rear axle.

    Brad at IMI’s motor packages are unbeatable on price. The local clutch “rules” appear to be somewhat in question, though if we use the Briggs rulebook as a guide it really narrows the choices, but assume for now the Max-Torque clutch will be used. They are cheap, plentiful, serviceable, and will do the job just fine.

    219 vs. 35 – 219 gives us more granular gearing choices and more clearance on the rear sprocket, but Brad’s package comes with either a 35 or 40 drive gear on the clutch.

    I’ve watched the vids on youtube that show you how to disassemble the Max-Torque and change the drive gear, BUT I have yet to find a variant of the Max Torque that has a 219 drive gear.

    Gee, it would be nice if we on the front range could standardize on a) a chain pitch, and b) a supply of split sprockets locally, wouldn’t you think? Assuming yes, what should it be?

    Comments/solutions appreciated. Thanks! Leo Ahearn.

    #66932
    Eddy Wyatt
    Participant

    Hello Leo

    The 35 pitch drive gear/chain/sprockets seem to work well with the 360lb minimum weight requirement for the Master Class in LO206. Additionally, appears the Max-Torque “Draggin Skin” clutch seems to be a good durable clutch as well. AS far as axle size, it’s negligible, due to axle stiffness and chassis, doesn’t seem to be an advantage either way due to the lower H.P. of the 206.

    Check with Jim (The Track) and Zac (PPKRC Pres.) to verify what the specific rules will be for each respective series.

    Don’t profess to be a subject matter expert on this stuff, so chime in all for more input. I would think all would want to keep it as close to spec. in accordance with the Briggs LO206 rules and regulations. :read

    The cool thing is we purchased a used 2006 Arrow AX8 30/32 CIK Chassis for $500.00 during the off season and put a 206 on it and total cost with Duro tires was just under $1500.00 :dance:

    Hope that helps.

    Eddy
    #2 Arrow LO206

    :co

    #66933
    Leo Ahearn
    Participant

    “The cool thing is we purchased a used 2006 Arrow AX8 30/32 CIK Chassis for $500.00 during the off season and put a 206 on it and total cost with Duro tires was just under $1500.00 “

    What HE said 🙂 🙂 🙂 8) :banana

    #66934
    Rodney Ebersole
    Participant

    It would also be nice to eliminate the pipe of the week club and confirm what pipes will be allowed and which muffler if any is required. I think the Briggs spec pipe may have some issues with the exhaust melting plastic rear bumpers on some set ups?
    While trying to utilize older karts the need to up date at least the rear bumper and possibly the side nerf bars. Are we going to follow any sanctioning org. that spells out some chassis rules such as width rules, placement and tubing wall thickness?

    #66935
    Jim Keesling
    Participant

    Hi,

    The rules that we will use are as follows:

    LO206, complete from B&S Racing, thru the dealer network.
    The package that is installed on my kart, as well as the one everyone saw at the Open House is the spec package. (headers, muffler, etc.)

    The Track is going to leave the drive system “open” (Belt, chain, 219, 35…) I have a 219 chain installed.

    Full size chassis with the full rear protection (metal or otherwise)

    Duro tire.

    Weights as described in the press release.

    Any question, please call or email.

    Thanks,
    Jim

    #66936
    Leo Ahearn
    Participant

    “LO206, complete from B&S Racing, thru the dealer network. “

    I just got off the phone with one of the Briggs dealers.

    The package from Briggs for the LO206 comes with the motor, fuel pump, and carb. No pipe, no muffler, no clutch, no air cleaner.

    If you scan the above posts, clutch and exhaust questions have been asked. I’ll add a third one – main jet.

    None of the three are addressed with the “rules” response above my post here, and what comes in the box from Briggs does not address them either.

    I guess then we just assume “open” on those items and move on.

    #66937
    Eddy Wyatt
    Participant

    Thanks for the clarification Jim.

    Eddy

    #66939
    Jim Keesling
    Participant

    Leo,
    Refer to the LO206 rules on their web site.
    5506, 5507. Only headers allowed.
    Main jet as well is described.

    We have only opened up the clutch options.

    You are right that the Dealer needs to add parts to have a “Turn Key” package, and the options are fully described in the rules.

    Green air filter, main jet, Junior Carb…etc

    Follow this link…

    http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines-racing/news/206%20crate%20race%20engine%202013%20rule%20set%20released/~/media/racing/lo%20206%204×6%20book%20-%200113.ashx

    Thanks

    #66940
    Mike Edwards
    Participant

    Hey Leo and others…..

    Don’t forget to support your local kart shops!

    #66941
    Leo Ahearn
    Participant

    Thank you Jim. The combination of your two posts here then now describe the rules for The Track LO206 2014 rules. Great.

    I was aware of the Briggs 2013 rule book before I started this thread, as are others watching this topic. Just tell us what the rules are and we’ll follow them is the intended message.

    Now let me be the first one to ask that we consider a local modification to Rule 18 Technical Item e. to include the 91 and 93 main jets in addition to the 95 jet listed in the rules.

    And Mike, you can count on my package being purchased locally.

    #66938
    richardhensley
    Participant

    Leo,

    Can we check with the CJKC folks before we modify the rules regarding jetting?

    I don’t think they have any struggles with the jetting in JR1, which is the same motor. I ask this because jetting can be quite intimidating for the beginner, and can be perceived as an advantage for somebody in the “know”. I just know this from trying to learn the voodoo of Rotax jetting and believing that everybody knows so much more than me. Which they do… 😆

    I would promote that we keep it simple and stick to the rules as stated until we know for sure that there is a problem.

    Thoughts?

    Richard Hensley
    720.253.5024

    #66942
    Leo Ahearn
    Participant

    Well I raised the subject based on talking with one of the Briggs racing dealers in Colorado Richard.

    I agree some work should be done to see if it really is an “issue”.

    We can’t deny the fact that the carb is jetted for sea level and we are 5K feet above it. Performance will be less than optimum, and we are already at a handicap, even WITH a near ideal air/fuel ratio, so why compound the issue? What have we gained by coating the inside of our exhaust with carbon?

    Personally, in the spirit of the class, if a jetting modification is accepted, I’d like to see it be done so in a fashion that it is not a race day tuning element of the kart. The jet you start the season with is the jet you run all year and end the season with at 4K feet and above tracks.

    #66943
    Les Prins
    Participant

    I have found that the 93 jet is optimal at this altitude. I believe that jet was legal in the CJKC back when I had a JR1 racing. The factory jet is a bit rich here and could foul the plug if the float is higher than normal. Minor adjustments with the needle and float level are allowed in the LO206 rules. raise the needle on cool days and lower on hot.

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