- This topic has 25 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 11 months ago by
.
- Posts
To prevent people like me from cheating would it be possible to construct a rules link for what is expected of LO206 racers at our local tracks?
Here is the link to the B&S rule set which covers most of the rules. http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engines-racing/~/media/Files/product_catalog/Briggs%20Racing/2013%20Local%20Option%20and%20Junior%20206%20Engine%20Class%20Regulations.pdf?la=en
Locally I “here” that we can use any clutch including disc clutches which is against the B&S rules. Is that true or not?
We also have enjoyed the local Duro tire rule. Besides a durometer check do we have any other rule such as wheel widths that need to be addressed ? and what is the minimum Durometer reading?
As far as weight classes go for adult classes, I really enjoyed “The Tracks” 300/350/380 weights racing all together and scoured separately, yet when we had the race at IMI we all were @ 370 which even I was able to be close to.
Just Wondering what others that raced or are considering to race the LO206 next year think of combining 350/380 to maybe one big class of something like 365 or so. I see IKF with National senior and masters @ 360 and PKRA that just uses one 375 senior class.I’d be very motivated to lose some weight if we went to a lower combined weight, eg. 365ish. It would be nice to have all at one weight and class as we had so much inter-class racing and carnage last year.
Either way I’ll be back next year. Digging the low cost format and the big kart count.
Dave
I think that clarifying a few rules is a good idea, given how popular the formula proved to be. I think we should stick to the Briggs ruleset on clutches, especially since disc clutches can run into the $300+ range. Either spec a clutch, or allow centrifugal only. Centrifugal clutches would keep with the low cost spirit of the class.
Loved the Duro tires! The fact that we didn’t need a new set every race was one of the biggest draws of the class for me, keeps it affordable and competitive.
Agree on revising the weights, there was definitely some carnage last year due in part to that. Perhaps two weight classes is the way forward (med/heavy)? That way some guys who couldn’t get down to the lower weight can still race. Either way, doesn’t make much of a difference to me since I raced in medium.
Looking forward to next season!
Also, I’m curious to know what our rule makers think about speccing a ‘high altitude’ jet for this class, since the 206 comes jetted for sea level. Just a thought!
Jon, In the Briggs rules it states a #95 jet yet then it says the tech is .036″ Go and .039″ No Go.
If the jet does not have to have the 95 stamped on it? The specs allow Briggs 93mm jet which is supposed to measure .0366″..Also the 91mm jet is supposed to measure .0358″ which wouldn’t be that hard to make it .0003″ bigger for the .036″ go gauge to go into it.
So IMO following the go and no go sizes and allowing non stamped #95 jets wouldn’t be a bad thing for the Denver area.
I have been pleased at how well even a stock #95 jet has performed at this elevation. It seems the 6100 rpm limiter and spec timing reduces the need to lean out the motor to get a better fuel/air ratio for higher revs.Hey Guys
My input, stay with centrifugal clutches, 95 jet and strict compliance of Briggs rules. Don’t know what others experienced, however, we ran our fastest times up and down hill with the 95 jet vice 93 at The Track and at varied OAT’s. You can always change the pin setting to get a leaner or richer mix without changing the jet. I’ve been told by those in the know, jet size in its self is negligible at altitude unless you’re running above the rev limited PVL on the 206, which we don’t do. I’m content with the weights/classes as they were at The Track in 2014, however would support the Briggs Senior weight of 360lb for the medium class in 2015. Suggest leaving the weight for the heavy class as is for those who are unable to get down to the 350 or 360lb minimum as per Briggs Senior.
Seems we had a good thing going at The Track last season, pretty amazing the numbers in only our first year with the 206 program. Suggest, let’s keep it going and keep it simple……
Happy Holidays,
Eddy
:coEddy, spot on. Keeping it simple will allow it to thrive. Centrifugal clutches only as per the Briggs rules would be good. One thing to remember about 2014 was the class worked really well and got a lot of people into the seat, and when something isn’t broke you shouldn’t fix it!
Thanks Greg, what I was thinking. Hopefully Jim and all the sponsors agree… Looking forward to 2015.
:flagClutch clarifications is the only thing we should consider. All the rest of the rules worked really well I believe.
Steph ran on one set of tires the whole season including practice and races. That way I could afford tires… 😀
See you on the track!
When someone is interested in racing the LO206 at The Track where would they look to view the rules that they would need to follow?
Here’s what we know from last year:
1. age 12 and up
2. light 300lbs, medium 350lbs, heavy 380lbs.
3. full size chassis
4. Duro tires; wheels 7.10/11 rears and 4.50/10 fronts.
5. 95 spec jet.If I’m not mistaken clutches were open last season, however, most ran centrifugal most likely due to cost savings, ease of tuning and overall performance and reliability. Additionally most ran 4t or Redline full synthetic oil like the CJKC.
Everything else should be in the Briggs link posted. i.e. box stock LO206 with spec pipe.
Most of what I posted here was taken right off “The Track” website under the race tab.
With all the kart shops and 206 racers in Colorado there shouldn’t be any reason this is a mystery. C’mon MAN>>>>>> 😆
Hope that helps.
Eddy
:coFWIW, I tested a 90 main jet in a variety of conditions, including hot humid afternoon, when it seems logical that it would help the most.
Can’t say I ever saw a lap time improvement with it, and throttle response suffered whenever I put it in, regardless of condition.
Needle height – same thing – lowering it (raising the clip) just hurt throttle response; made it more of an on/off switch with those half-lifts and back on the throttle for some turns to help rotate the kart, rather than being able to get progressively from half to full throttle.
The max torque clutches are garbage – saw 3 of em destroyed last season, even one on a kid kart, so you can’t blame us fat asses for it. When mine let go (heat race of course) the driver behind me said I spewed shrapnel. The teeth where the driver engages the drum is what fails.
I ran engagements from 1800 to 3600. Higher is more forgiving, but when you get it right with the 1800, it really pulls hard out of the hairpin.
GOOD info Leo. I blew up a Max Torque Draggin Skin with my test engine pre-season and found the Inferno clutches, Fury or Flame worked well all race season with just doing preventive maintenance. The Stinger clutch worked really good as well; all easy to tune and in the $100 to $140.00 price range depending on shipping and where you buy. :rev
We imploded two max torques before finding the stingers.
The only thing you have to watch on the stingers is keeping the inner screws tight. Thus, I took the clutch apart after every full day of running.
Cum on Eddy it’s not like I’m trying to promote any mysteries here. Most people don’t race karts and IMO would be a bit puzzled when they attempt to find out what or where the rules are. :look
We had quite a few dangling and some loss of mufflers in the races last year. With proper shimming and clamping I was able to prevent that, yet I have heard some racers that plan on welding their mufflers on. That is a DQ in this shops rules book, am I wrong or right? :redmen :redmen LOL
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.